Two to Travel: Shopping Anyone?

Thursday — April 22: Part II

The city that straddles two continents has been known by many different names in history. The best known of these monikers are the Byzantine name of “Constantinople” … the formal Ottoman name of “al-Qustantiniyah” … and, of course, the modern day name of “İstanbul.” Historians believe that the Asian side of the city was probably inhabited as early as 3000 BC, and that the European side was first settled by Greek colonists in the 7th Century. To say that there’s history in every nook and cranny of İstanbul would be an understatement and I’m not going to attempt to summarize it here. Those who’d like to learn more, can start with this Wikipedia post and go from there. As for me, I’m going to move onto our first afternoon in the city.

We covered quite a bit of ground this afternoon.
(yellow icons = places we explored; red icons = nearby sites)

From our hotel in Beyoğlu, a meandering walk on narrow, cobblestone streets took us first to the 14th century Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower), and then down the hill and across the Galata Köprüsü (Galata Bridge). Although the noon light was harsh, I couldn’t help but click the shutter several times. (No surprise that I didn’t like the outcome. I converted the photos using the “aged photo” filter in Lightroom; I like them better this way.)

Galata Kulesi (Galata Tower)
On 29 May 1453 the Genoese handed over the keys to the tower that they knew
as “Christea Turris” (the Tower of Christ) to Fatih Sultan Mehmet, who
conquered Constantinople, thus bringing an end to the Byzantine Empire.

From Galata Kulesi one can see Seraglio Point (Sarayburnu) where the
Topkapı Palace is located, followed by (left to right) the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque.
The Sea of Marmara and the Princes' Islands are visible on the horizon.
(we skipped going to the top of the tower this time; the photograph is from March 2004)

Kamondo Merdiveni (Kamondo Staircase)
Located in the Galata neighborhood, the staircase was built in the 19th century. It is
named for the prosperous Jewish family that commissioned the elegant double staircase.
(the image on the right is from March 2004)

Ferries, like the ones docked here, ply the Boğaz (Bosphorus) night and day.

Fishing from Galata Köprüsü is a popular pastime.

Yeni Camii (New Mosque) is an Ottoman imperial mosque in Eminönü.

Sarayburnu serves as a nice backdrop for this “Erin & Murat in İstanbul” photo op .

Food vendors at the end of the bridge do a brisk business.
(Left: a floating fish restaurant; Right: a purveyor of “fine” pickles)

Galata Kulesi and the Galata skyline as seen from Eminönü.

Mısır Çarşısı is next door to Yeni Camii.

When I’m on an airplane, I usually pass the time writing blog entries. But this morning’s AtlasJet flight was so short that the laptop didn’t come out of my bag. A good thing too. Otherwise, I might have missed the article in the in-flight magazine. Entitled “The Treasure Trove of İstanbul: The Spice Bazaar,” the article turned out to be a good introduction for my first-ever visit to Mısır Çarşısı (literal translation, Egyptian Bazaar; more accurately, spice bazaar). I’ve uploaded a copy here if you’d like to read it (it’s in both English and Turkish).

The market, which dates back to 1664, is the second largest in the city after the Grand Bazaar. Back in those days, most spices were imported from Egypt, hence the Turkish name of the market. The L-shaped building has 88 rooms with high, vaulted ceilings. Of the six entrances; four are still used today. Each portal is a gateway to a different world. We entered from the main portal in Eminönü and were immediately assailed by the aroma of spices wafting on the air. Just like the article described, the market was a complete sensory experience — the smells, the colors, the sounds … they all vied for my attention.

Mısır Çarşısı is a full sensory experience.

You want spices? You got spices.

Fruit teas galore.

The variety of “Lokum” (Turkish Delight) is endless.

Care for some dried apricots or figs stuffed with walnuts?
Or, how about some “cevizli sucuk” (churchkhela).
(walnuts stringed together and dipped in thickened white grape juice to form a sweet sausage)

“Sultan macunu” is a spiced candy that’s said to restore potency, and even youth and health!
(read the sign in the back if you need further clarification)

In the US, there is pastrami; in Turkey, there is “pastırma.”

And look at what else I found at the market. Diversify or die. I guess that holds true even at nearly 350-year old shopping venues.

Yeah, right! I really believe that sign!!!

Exiting the market through a different door, we negotiated crowded streets lined with shops selling anything and everything imaginable. Fifteen minutes later, we were at Kapalı Çarşı (literally, covered bazaar; more accurately, Grand Bazaar).

With over 58 streets and 1,200+ shops, Kapalı Çarşı is one of the oldest and biggest covered markets in the world. It was built in 1461, shortly after the city was conquered by Fatih Sultan Mehmet in 1453, and enlarged considerably in the 16th century. In 1894, it underwent major renovation to repair earthquake damage. Since then, it has withstood the test of time and pedestrian traffic remarkably well.

I don’t normally post a photo unless I can give the photographer/website credit, but I’m making an exception in the case of this aerial shot that shows the area covered by Kapalı Çarşı. (The image was part of one of those PowerPoint presentations that makes the rounds via email.)

Daily visitors are not counted in the thousands here, but in the hundreds of thousands. Some come to shop; others, like us, to just wander around the grand ole bazaar. You know how much I detest crowds, so I have to admit to a bit of trepidation as I entered this immense edifice, visions of vendors pulling at me right and left dancing in my head. It turns out, it wasn’t half bad. Yes, it was crowded; but not overwhelmingly so. The few vendors that invited us into their shops were polite; they thanked us when we responded by saying “hayırlı işler” (rough translation, have a profitable day at work) and went about their business. Lest you think this was because of our Turkish heritage, let me disabuse you of that notion. Every single vendor that approached us did so by speaking to us in English. (Admittedly, three of us do have at least some American blood running through our veins, but still!!!)

Now that I think of it, there was one exception to the polite shopkeepers. One guy just kept insisting that I was not Turkish, even when I spoke to him in Turkish, using words that are beyond the vocabulary of the average phrase-book toting tourist. Exasperated, I finally told him, in Turkish, that it was his problem if he didn’t believe me. That did the trick — I left him mouth agape, staring after me. Next time, I just might try repeating a portion of the pledge we used to recite when I was in grade school: “Türküm, Doğruyum, Çalışkanım …” (I’m a Turk, I’m honest, I’m diligent …).

I parted company with mom and A&M after a while to wander on my own. Fearing I would lose my way in the dizzying maze of covered streets, I didn’t venture far. Using a “sebil” (public water fountain) located at one of the intersections, I walked the length of one street, clicking the shutter along the way. Then, I returned to the sebil, and walked up the street to the right of the first one … and so on. OK, so I wasn’t very adventurous; but hey, it worked. I managed to hook up with my party again without having to call them to come and find me!

As was the case at Mısır Çarşısı, the photos I took here would have benefited greatly from the use of a tripod. Nonetheless …