Showing posts with label Turkey 2011. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Turkey 2011. Show all posts

Mui’s Italy

October 24 – November 1

While I was gallivanting around İzmir and Ankara with my family, Mui took his mom to Italy for a “trip down memory lane” — they lived in Rome for three years when he was but a child.

Not only did they find their way back to the apartment building in which they lived …

… they knocked on a former neighbor’s door and found him still living there!
(Mui’s mom with Ettore)

We’re not “tour group travel” people — the pace doesn’t work with our interest in photography and videography.  But, for this trip, Mui booked with Riviera Tours, making the arrangements from the US.  He was very pleased with how it all worked out.  It certainly kept things simple, which is what he was interested in for this trip with his mother.

The itinerary took them to Rome, including the Vatican; Venice; and Florence, including Pisa.

Mui and his mom at the Vatican.

(The embedded video is a compilation of still shots Mui took with his new P&S camera — the Canon S95.  In line with the “KISS” aspect of this trip, he did not take his video equipment.)

Enjoy!

For those who would like to see more, here’s a link to the online gallery.

Another Trip Comes to an End

Sunday, 6 November

… Somewhere Over the Atlantic — 11:08a (DC Time)

We’re more than half way into the 11-hour flight from İstanbul to DC.  Yup; you read that right — ELEVEN hours straight through.  What with headwinds and such, westbound flights are usually longer by a couple of unwelcome hours.  But there’s good news — we got to spread out again for the duration of the flight.

The Airbus A330-300 that we’re on is at capacity with just a few empty seats here and there; but we lucked out.  When Mui found out in Ankara that our pre-selected seats had been given away and we were seated separately on this long haul, he asked that we be assigned new seats together.  Turkish Airlines (THY) accommodated him, giving us 39A/B — clear at the very back of the rear economy cabin.  That worked in our favor.  Just before the cabin crew called for the doors to be armed and cross-checked, he jumped into the only 3-seat row in the middle that was still sans-passengers.  Not as much room as we had with four seats each on the way over to Turkey, but hey; we’re not complaining.  With the cramped legroom between rows, having any kind of room to spread out is a blessing.

on the concourse at İstanbul Atatürk International Airport.
these stars, apparently sprinkled all around the city, are a UNICEF fundraiser;
you can text “star” and the number of the star (this one is 0005) to donate 10TL (~ $6).

Except for the time it took him to eat lunch, Mui’s been stretched out a few rows behind me; snoozing away.  I attempted to nap a bit after lunch, but couldn’t get my eyes to stay closed even though I’ve been up since 6:00p DC time yesterday (1:00a in İzmir today).  I thought I’d easily sleep away part of the long flight.  After all, I catnapped for only 3 hours before I got up to get ready for my 4:20a flight from İzmir to İstanbul.  Perhaps it’s for the best.  My body is now on US time and will adjust to the seven-hour time change (in our favor) without any jetlag.

Scene from İstanbul Atatürk International Airport.

So, yes — 4:20a really is an indecent hour for a flight.  I bid my mother farewell at 2:30a, and Aylin and Murat drove me to the airport, an easy 20-minute drive with no traffic en route.  Mui had a more respectable 6:15a flight out of Ankara, so he didn’t have to leave for the airport until I was already winging my way to İstanbul.  Good thing he gave himself extra time to get to the airport, however; the car that was taking him there broke down before he got out of the city.  Luckily, he was able to get a cab the rest of the way.

Today is the first day of Kurban Bayramı (Eid el-Adha, or more commonly, the Feast of Sacrifice).  The four-day bayram is probably the most important religious holiday in Turkey.  It celebrates Abraham’s near-sacrifice of his son (Ishmael) to prove his complete obedience to God.  As the story is told in both the Bible and the Kuran, at the last moment God stays Abraham’s hand, providing a sacrificial ram instead.

It has become a tradition in the Muslim world for heads of households to sacrifice a sheep (usually; can be cattle, as well) on the morning of the first day of the holiday.  One of the key tenets is that the sacrifice not be a financial burden to the household (unfortunately not all adhere to that thought).  The family keeps a portion of the meat from the sacrifice, but donates the majority to the needy as a form of charity.  (For more info, click here.)  Personally, I’d rather see the equal value of the price of a sacrificial animal donated to charity, but that’s just me.

I digressed with the above paragraphs, but for a reason.  We usually do long-haul flights back to the US on a Saturday to give ourselves a day of rest before jumping in with both feet at work on Monday.  This time, hoping that those traveling for bayram would do so on Saturday, we delayed our flight to Sunday.  Maybe the strategy worked; maybe it didn’t.  We both had full flights to İstanbul, and while all three airports were busy, none was a zoo.  We checked in for our respective domestic flights with ease, and went through passport control in İstanbul with little delay in quick moving, short queues.  No fuss; no muss — the way airport experiences should always be.  Yeah, right!simit

Mui and I hooked up in İstanbul around 7:30a.  We stretched our legs with a walk down the main concourse, snacking on simit (see photo to the right) and cheese on-the-go.  Later, we found a couple of comfy seats in an empty corner of the lower concourse leading to the gates and Mui entertained me with a quickie slideshow of the photos he took in Italy (slideshow forthcoming).

When the gate for our 10:50a THY flight to the US was finally posted at 9:00a, we headed in that direction.  Some of the gates in the international terminal have a second layer of security.  Since we were there early, there was no line whatsoever and we went through another passport verification and security checkpoint in record time.  (Word to the wise; once you’re thru this security checkpoint, there are no restrooms.  You are allowed to go back out should you need to use the facilities, but you’ll have to go through the checkpoint again to re-enter the waiting area.)

The A330-300 is being readied to embark passengers to the US.

Boarding for TK0007 was supposed to start at 9:50a, but was delayed about 40 minutes due to late arriving aircraft.  I have to say, THY (in fact, this goes for many European carriers) needs to get the boarding process under control.  Boarding by rows would be so much easier than the mass exodus from the waiting area at the gate.  Knowing what to expect, we were positioned near the door and followed the priority boarding group down the jetway to settle into our last-row-in-economy seats without getting caught in the morass that followed us aboard.  Even with the hub-bub, boarding was completed in a record 25 minutes (we’re talking over 275 passengers) and the aircraft pushed back at 11:05a, just 15 minutes later than scheduled.

Güle güle (goodbye) İstanbul!

Lunch was served about 90 minutes into the flight.  It was (again) much better than the usual fare one gets on an airplane.  This time on the menu: smoked salmon; kuru cacık (thick yogurt with small chunks of cucumbers, garnished with crushed mint); karnıyarık (literal translation, split tummy; small eggplant split open and stuffed with minced meat); and vanilla pannacotta.  (The other main course option was chicken brochette, which I overheard some passengers describing as being quite good as well.)  A second full meal will be served before we land, so perhaps we’ll skip dinner and go grocery shopping instead when we get home.  After all, we do have an empty larder that needs attention if we want to have breakfast tomorrow.

The first of two meals on TK0007.

After I gave up on napping, I browsed the entertainment system.  From the on-demand movies, I settled on Mr. Popper’s Penguins to while away some time.  Loudy, Lovey, Bitey, Nimrod, Captain, and Stinky turned out to be good flight companions, offering hilarious and light-hearted moments of fun.  (I was happy to read in an article that while some scenes were filmed with real Gentoo penguins, many that required “unnatural” penguin behavior were done with CGI penguins.)

Reading and writing this portion of the blog took care of several more hours.  In fact, we’re down to less than 3½ hours of flying time now.  I think I’ll browse the rest of the movies and see if I can find something to kill a few of those hours.  More later …

At home — 6:00p (DC Time)water-for-elephants-movie-photo-02-e1303492971776

I’m really way too tired to unpack or do any of the usual post-trip chores.  We almost made it out the door to do some grocery shopping, but Mui decided he needed to get a haircut.  OK; I’ll just stay home and finish up this post — don’t need to twist my arm!

So, back to the flight …

The on-demand entertainment system yielded Water for Elephants, a romantic drama based on Sara Gruen’s novel by the same name.  I had read that while no harm was done to the animals during the filming of the movie, there was some controversy about the way they were treated before the film was made.  I hope there’s no truth to that claim; as I also certainly hope that the bottles of whisky being poured into Rosie’s (the elephant) water bucket did not contain real liquor.  Both would be major no-no’s in my book!

The second meal service started part-way through the movie.  This time we were served: shrimp salad; penne pasta and eggplant in a creamy tomato sauce; and fırın sütlaç (baked rice pudding).  The food was good, but the penne was a bit too salty for my palate.

Meal #2 aboard TK0007.

The hour following the meal service went by quickly.  Before we knew it, the bed of clouds had parted to reveal the US coastline — I think I recognized the Chincoteague/Assateague area.  Another half hour and we were on descent into Dulles International for an on-time landing at 3:25p.

Looks like there’s still quite a bit of fall foliage left in Virginia.

That would be our aircraft coming in for a landing at ...

… Dulles International; Welcome back to the US!

The aircraft taxied to the far, far corner of the airport and parked on the tarmac.  No jetways anywhere near us could only mean one thing — that we’d be transported to customs in the main terminal via mobile lounges.  Sure enough, two of them soon approached, one docking with the front door, and another docking with the rear door.  Worked nicely for those of us in the last row!

Arriving during the mid-day rush hour of incoming flights from Europe always means long lines at immigration.  It was especially bad for the non-US passport holders today; the line they had to get into was really loooooong.  For once, that wasn’t the case for us; one of the shortest lines in our travel experience.  Even still, it was an hour before we found ourselves in the taxi line with our luggage in tow.

Our arrival good-luck continued with a traffic-free ride home.  Couldn’t have asked for better.  Well, we could have; but we’ve learned to count our blessings when it comes to relatively hassle-free air travel experiences.

We have no international — or domestic, for that matter — travel plans in the works for the rest of the year, or into 2012.  I’m sure we’ll go somewhere, but the destination is yet to be determined.  Until then … it’s getting on towards 10:00p and I’m off to bed to get a good night’s rest.  Tomorrow’s a work day :-(

One Last Outing: Çeşme

Friday, November 4

Another beautiful-weather morning found us on our way to Çeşme, a coastal town about 50 miles (80 km) west of İzmir. Çeşme literally translates as “faucet or fountain.” I hear there are numerous fountains sprinkled around town. Perhaps on a different occasion I'll go hunting for them, but that wasn't on the agenda today.

I spent many a summer in one of the nearby towns with my family, and remember frequent forays into the town-proper for a meal, shopping, or just for a stroll. In some ways, today’s Çeşme is quite different from the one I remember; in others, it’s the same. I enjoyed a bit of both today.

there’s a highway connecting İzmir to Çeşme now; it makes for a faster, easier drive.

We started our day with breakfast at Murat’s mother’s beach house. Normally they’d be back in the city by now, but they’re renovating their apartment in İzmir, so they’ll be staying in Çeşme until that work is completed. Their house is up a steep hill, next door to the fortress, and has a view of the recently constructed marina.

Nice view, don’t you agree?

I thought I had taken a photo of the breakfast feast, but I can’t find it. You’ll just have to take my word that it was worthy of royalty.

After breakfast, Aylin and Murat took me to the marina for a stroll. It was quiet, and most of the eateries and shops were closed, but I imagine that on the weekends the place is hopping. Having opened to service in 2010, the marina is a new addition to the town; and one they hope will bring in lots of revenue from boat owners. It sure didn’t look like it was lacking for small-boat clientele.

Narrow, flagstone-paved streets are lined with eateries and shops.

Sunny, but chilly … not that we were put off from sightseeing.

Everywhere you look there are bushes of Bougainvillea blooming.

who says there aren’t unicorns?

Looking towards town from the far side of the marina; hidden behind all those
masts is the fortress that we’ll be visiting next.

One of Çeşme’s landmarks is the kale (fortress) by the same name. Though proof is hard to come by, it’s believed that the fortress was built by the Genoese in the 14th Century. Restored in the 16th Century during the reign of the Ottoman Sultan Bayezit II, it played an important role in the Naval Battle of Çeşme (1770). The Russian fleet was victorious, but not before losing their flagship to the Ottoman fleet.

Sultan Bayezİt II restored the fortress in 1508.

In 1965, the fortress was converted to a museum. (Admission fee 3TL [approx. $1.75]; free with Müzekart). Visitors are allowed to wander around at will and check out the exhibits housed in several of the towers. Theoretically, one can walk the narrow, stone walkway that rims the ramparts all the way around. There was renovation work being done along one side, however, so I was unable to make the full circuit. Steep, perhaps, but worth it for the views.

The picture on the left is exactly what you think it is — an alaturka (Turkish style) toilet.
It was located at the head of the walkway (right) leading to the interior courtyard.
Note the rifle/arrow slit in the wall — I guess the guard was expected to be alert
and ready to defend the fortress at all times :-)

Over 700 Ottoman period headstones that have been collected from around the
area are lined up against the walls of the fortress.

the inner courtyard — or at least a part of it.
I sure could have used a super wide angle lens here.

Archaeological finds displayed in the corner tower seen in the previous image.

Heading up along the side wall yields views of the marina.

Glimpse of the moat surrounding the fortress.

Where there's now a marina ...

... once there was just a body of water.
[historic photo from a billboard]

Glimpse of the town from high atop the ramparts.

A little weathered, but ready to defend the fortress.

From the exhibit in the Çeşme Ottoman-Russian Naval Battle Hall.
Top Left: 1791 English cartoon satirizing Catherine the great’s imperial ambitions and
sexual appetite as she steps over the heads of European monarchs.
Center: it was during the reign of Sultan Mustafa III that the naval battle was fought.
top right: Portrait of Catherine the great.
bottom left & right: Paintings depicting the naval battle.

Exhibit of amphorae dating from the 1st Century BC to the 18th Century AD.

And on that note, we called our sightseeing quits. After collecting mom from where we’d left her to visit with Murat’s mom and sister, we made a quick stop to pick up some cheese from Murat’s favorite dairy and headed back home.

Tomorrow is packing day … so, no post.

Another Family Visit and a “Remembrance House”

Thursday, 3 November

A beautiful fall day found mom and me on one of the new municipal busses that zip around the city. Except that we didn’t just zip a short distance; we rode the bus all the way around the bay from Alsancak to Bostanlı, one of the municipalities of Karşıyaka (which literally translates as the opposite collar, or the opposite shore). The ride took about 45 minutes, and was an easy means of getting us to my uncle’s house. In fact, the bus dropped us off just steps from the street on which they live, so we couldn’t have asked for better. And you can’t beat the price — 1.75TL (approx. $1). Now, had the traffic been bad, I might have felt differently about taking the bus, but our mid-morning trip meant little traffic to hinder us along the way.

The map above is actually one that shows the ferry landings (existing and projected). since we took the ferry back from KarşIyaka to alsancak via pasaport (see the area circled), I thought it would do nicely to show where bostanli is in relation to where we are in alsancak.

Adnan Amca (uncle) is my father’s younger brother. He and Suna Yenge (aunt by marriage) have lived in Bostanlı for as long as I remember. Except that what I remember is a two-story house in a garden; and a snake we found in the front yard one day when I was on a sleep-over visit! But that’s a story for another time. In any event, that house is no more. Several years ago, the house was razed and in its place was built a multi-story apartment building; they live on the second floor.

My uncle has not been in the greatest of health in recent years, so I was glad to have a chance to visit, and was delighted when he actually chatted with me. (Last time I saw him, he was rather quiet and not talking much with anyone.) That he was happy to see me was apparent from the twinkle in his eye; that made my day.

The photo above was taken at my cousin Hülya’s engagement party in December 1974. I’ll start with the back row (R to L): Suna Yenge, yaman (my cousin), KamİL (Hülya’s fiancé), Hülya (may she rest in peace; we lost her at a very young age), adnan amca, my father, mom, “Moi of the big hair”, Ruhan (my cousin), Cİcİ (or serpİl), Hala (my aunt), and Denİz (my brother). The gentleman sitting down is my paternal grandfather; the ladies are relatives on yenge’s side of the family. The little girl closest to my grandfather is Aylİn.

After our short visit, mom and I hopped a bus to downtown Karşıyaka. We’d planned to have lunch and then go to a “remembrance house.” Since we were stuffed from the ıspanaklı börek (pastry filled with spinach) my aunt had served with tea, we decided to skip lunch and go straight to the next part of our plans.

The Latife Hanım Köşkü Anı Evi (Latife Hanım’s Villa Remembrance House), a house that dates back to the 1860s, was renovated and opened to the public in 2008 (no admission). It is built in the Late Ottoman architectural style. I had no idea this house existed until mom suggested that we visit it.

Collage of photos showing the villa pre- and post-restoration.
[top right and two bottom photos scanned from the brochure]

Latife Hanım was Atatürk’s wife. The house belonged to her family and was used as a summer residence. It is significant in Turkish history as the place where Atatürk’s mother, Zübeyde Hanım, died in 1923.

(P.S. Hanım is an honorific used in referring to women; it can be translated as Mrs or Ms.)

embroidered frame displaying a photograph of Latİfe HanIm and Atatürk.

At the entrance, we were asked to put disposable plastic booties over our shoes and were then left to wander around at will. The brochure and the signage around the house focuses on events that took place in the house, such as Zübeyde Hanım’s first dinner here, and Atatürk’s words at his mother’s grave. While they made interesting reading, there was little information about the period furnishings used to decorate the interior of the house.

rooms on the First Floor

Detail from the rooms.
The flag in the top right is one that atatürk walked under when he arrived in İzmİr on
10 September 1922, following the liberation of the city from the occupying greek forces.

Walking up the stairs to the second floor, I was taken aback by the reflection in the mirror of an elderly woman sitting in a chair. The woman looked so much like the pictures I’d seen of Zübeyde Hanım that it could have been her twin. I had to chuckle when, moments later, it dawned on me that the figure was made of wax! It turns out that the three main rooms upstairs each had a wax figure to greet visitors. I later read that it took 2.5 months to make each one.

Latİfe HanIm
[note the inset picture that was the inspiration for this figure,]

atatürk

Zübeyde Hanim

Collage of B&W images from the billboards in the front yard of the villa.

Instead of taking the bus back for the return trip to Alsancak, we took one of the ferries that scurry back and forth across the bay. Operating on a regular schedule, the ferry system is another inexpensive means of public transport (1.75TL [approx. $1]). Our timing was perfect and we had a very short wait at the Karşıyaka ferry terminal before we boarded the boat that took us to Alsancak via Pasaport.

From Karşiyaka ...
The monument in the lower left honors “atatürk, his mother, and women’s rights.”

... to Pasaport ...
The pasaport ferry terminal dates back to 1884.

… to Alsancak.
Top Left: the former NATO Headquarters building.
Left Center: MSC Magica in port for a day-visit.
bottom Left: Note how the MSC Magica looks like it’s one of the kordon apartment buildings.
Top right: The building with the flag is the house where atatürk lived when he came to İzmİr.

We wrapped up the day by joining Aylin and her friend for afternoon tea; thanks for the çay and tasty treats, Aylin.

Tomorrow we’re heading to a resort town where I spent many a childhood summer. Since I’m leaving Sunday to return to the US, it will probably be my last real outing of this trip. I intend to make the most of it!