Tuesday — April 27: Part I
What happened to the 26th you might ask? That was our travel day back from İstanbul to İzmir; rather uneventful, with not much to write about. Our mid-morning flight was delayed a bit for incoming equipment, but otherwise routine. When we arrived home, we set about doing our post-travel chores — unpacking, laundry, ironing. Late in the afternoon, a family friend stopped by with goodies from the patisserie next door and we had tea together and caught up on the latest gossip. That wraps it up for yesterday … so onward we move.
From the marketplace of today to the marketplace of yesteryear.
(green house = home; red balloon = Kızlarağası Hanı;
yellow balloon = Agora; blue train = Basmane Train Station)
Having seen the granddaddy of covered bazaars in İstanbul, Mom and Aylin wanted to show me İzmir’s mini “Kapalı Çarşı” today. So, we took a mid-day walk to the Hisar Önü area of Kemeraltı. Our destination was Kızlarağası Hanı, an 18th Century caravanserai that was converted to a covered bazaar in 1993.
Kızlarağası (or Kızlar Ağası) was an Ottoman court position. Meaning “chief of the girls”, it was the title by which the Chief Black Eunuch of the Ottoman Seraglio was known. The Kızlar Ağası was responsible for the protection of the women in the harem. Why this caravanserai was so named is still a mystery to me. If anyone knows the genesis of the name, do let me know.
 |  |
Before the coastal waters were filled in, the two-story, square-shaped building was much closer to the sea, making it a significant trading post of the Ottoman Empire. The lower level had several “bedesten” (commercial shopping areas) offering goods ranging from copper to silk, as well as barns for the camels and other animals that were part of the caravans. Upstairs were rooms for the weary tradesmen that traveled here from the four corners of the empire.
 |  |
 |  |
After our brief visit to Kızlarağası Hanı, we decided to have lunch downtown. This area has an abundance of eateries known as “esnaf lokantaları” that cater to shopkeepers, tradesmen, and the staff of local businesses. Of course, business being business, they also welcome anyone else that wanders in for a meal, including shoppers and sightseers like us.
These establishments offer home-style cooking and are relatively inexpensive. Perhaps the most important feature of these places is the quick service. The food is cooked and on display in glass cases. You point out your selection and by the time you find yourself a table, the waiter is placing your food in front of you — ideal for anyone who wants to have a quick, tasty lunch. I ordered “köfte” (meatballs) with a side of “kabak” (zucchini), served with yogurt. Both were very good; the kabak especially.
Following lunch, we walked down the street a bit and had dessert at Bolulu Hasan Usta (literal translation, Master Chef Hasan from Bolu). I ordered the “ekmek kadayıf” (sort of a bread pudding in thick syrup), served with a big chunk of clotted cream that cuts down on the sweetness of the dessert. It was good, but the oversized portion meant I had enough left over to take home and enjoy after dinner as well.
 |  |
Lunch & Dessert in Kemeraltı
Our tummies sated, we went our separate ways: mom headed off to buy some geraniums for the terrace planters; Aylin and I headed off to do some more sightseeing. Our plan was to check out the view from the Asansör (elevator), a lift-tower built in 1907 by a local philanthropist to save people from having to walk up and down the 155 steps that connect two sections of a neighborhood. We didn’t get far. One look at the haze enveloping the bay was all we needed to determine that our trip there would be in vain. So, we too parted ways: Aylin headed home; I headed to nearby ruins of antiquity.
Next Up: Agora — a Gathering Place and a Market of Yesteryear
No comments:
Post a Comment