X-Stitch: Lale Zamanı (aka Tulip Time)

Ask anyone where tulips originated, and the answer will likely be: Holland.  Actually, commercial cultivation of the tulip (or lale) began in the Ottoman Empire.  As a matter of fact, there was an entire era in Ottoman history known as the Lale Devri (Tulip Period).  Lasting from 1718 to 1730, this was a relatively peaceful period during which the Ottoman Empire began to orient itself towards Europe.

According to Wikipedia:

… the word tulip, which earlier appeared in English in forms such as tulipa or tulipant, entered the language by way of French tulipe and its obsolete form tulipan or by way of Modern Latin tulīpa, from Ottoman Turkish tülbend (“muslin” or “gauze”), and is ultimately derived from Persian dulband (“turban”).

Stylized tulip images were used in Ottoman art and could be found in everything ranging from fine fabrics to tile-work.  My rendition is more realistic — here is Lale Zamanı

Tulip Time

Tulips are one of the most popular and anticipated of the spring flowers.  I’m hoping that posting this blog entry on the last day of February will hasten the arrival of spring.  I’m ready to put winter behind me.

Written in Bone

Friday, 18 February

Darn; weather-wise, picked the wrong day again.  After three weeks of putting in nearly as many overtime hours as regular hours at work, I decided to give myself a day off.  The forecasters were calling for sunshine and temps in the low 70F range.  Well, we got the temps —it was 73F (23C) in DC around 2:00p — and the sun did peek out for a while, but it was a mostly overcast, breezy day.  Quite different from yesterday when we had beautiful blue skies, puffy white clouds, sunshine that bumped the temps into the 70F range, and no breeze whatsoever.  Oh well, we didn’t let that stop us from enjoying ourselves.

Warning in advance; this is going to be a long post (yeah, I know — they all are), and it will likely only interest those who are intrigued by archaeology and forensic sciences.

Last March, we visited Historic St Mary’s City, Maryland’s colonial capital from 1634 to 1694.  (Click here to read the story of our day.)  While touring the living museum, we came across a mention of some lead coffins that had been found at the Brick Chapel.  These coffins, we were told, were on display at the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History.  I made a mental note to check them out, but didn’t get around to going to the Written in Bone exhibit until today.

a holographic shape-shifter Welcomes visitors to
Written in Bone — Forensic Files of the 17th-Century Chesapeake.

The exhibit page on the museum website sets the stage with the following:

Written in Bone examines history through 17th-century bone biographies, including those of colonists teetering on the edge of survival at Jamestown, Virginia, and those living in the wealthy and well-established settlement of St. Mary’s City, Maryland.

The forensic investigation of human skeletons provides intriguing information on people and events of America's past.  No other inanimate objects make us feel the same passionate curiosity as the remains of once-living, breathing individuals like us.  And nothing else can answer our questions in quite the same ways.

After watching the video on the exhibit page, I was armed with a better understanding of what awaited us, and had added to the list of displays to check out in addition to the lead coffins.  (The exhibit area was rather dark, and most of the displays were behind glass.  Not ideal for handheld photography, but I did my best.  Most of the information presented below was gleaned from the signage at the exhibit.)

A male skull differs from a female skull — it is generally larger;
has larger brow ridges, with a sloping, less rounded forehead;
greater definition of muscle attachment areas on the back of the head;
larger mastoid processes (projections behind the ears); and A square
chin with an acute, more vertical angle of the jaw.

The first display at which we spent time was The First Fatality.  It involves skeletal remains uncovered in 2005 inside the James Fort in Jamestown, Virginia.  It turns out the body was that of a young boy who died during an Indian attack in 1607, a mere two weeks after the colonists landed on the island.

Eyewitness accounts of an event, and skeletal and forensic evidence
lead to an identification, albeit an unnamed one.
(note the red arrow pointing to an ARROWHEAD FOUND NEAR THE FEMUR;
IT WOULD HAVE BEEN EMBEDDED IN THE LEG TISSUE.)

After studying the skeletal remains, scientists have concluded that a quick death might have been a blessing for this boy.  It was determined that he broke a tooth before leaving England.  As he didn’t receive any dental care, an infection developed in his jaw that would have eventually spread throughout his body.  As the pus drained into his mouth, he would have had trouble eating and he would have experienced considerable pain.  (For more information on this case, click here.)

Onto the second forensic case that caught our attention — The Body in the Basement.  These remains were discovered in Leavy Neck, a small 17th-century farm in the Lost Town’s Project in Anne Arundel County (Maryland).  The skeleton was found in a shallow hole in the storage cellar.  The body was buried under a thick layer of soil, and the cellar was filled with household trash dating from 1663 to 1680.

The hidden circumstances of his burial and evidence in his bones
suggest abuse and wrongful death.

Historical records show that a family — consisting of a married couple, and their son and two daughters — settled on Leavy Neck in 1662.  They had two indentured servants and they had come to the area to start a small plantation.  Archaeological evidence indicates that the house was abandoned by the 1680s, so the burial of the body — likely one of the servants — had to have taken place before then.  (For more information on this case, click here.)

Finally, the reason we were at the exhibit to begin with — The Lead Coffins.  In the winter of 1990, three lead coffins were found under the imported-stone floor of the Brick Chapel in Historic St Mary’s City.  The preferred burial site of the English of high social standing was under the floor of a church, rather than outside in the churchyard.  The higher the person’s status, the closer to the altar was the grave.

Artist’s rendering of the chapel where the coffins were found.
(the images on the right are from the Project Lead Coffins website.)

The largest of the three coffins contained the poorly preserved, possibly embalmed remains of a male in his mid-50s, about 5’6” (1.65 m) tall, right-handed, with no evidence of heavy physical labor.  Carbon-isotope testing indicated that he was English, but had lived in Maryland for several years.  Pollen evidence in the coffin indicated a winter-death.  It was determined that the remains likely were of Philip Calvert (the sixth son of George Calvert, first Lord Baltimore), who came to America in 1657 to serve as chancellor and governor of Maryland.

After they were first found in 1990, the lead coffins were reburied
until a comprehensive investigation could be launched.

The second coffin contained the well-preserved remains of a woman strewn with rosemary sprigs (symbol of remembrance, also probably intended to mask odors).  Silk ribbon was wrapped around her wrist bones, tying her hands together over the pelvis and securing her feet.  There was evidence of linen shroud fibers and copper staining.  Her burial in a lead coffin led to the surmise that she must have been a prominent member of the colony.  Later, it was determined that she was Anne Wolseley Calvert, the first wife of Philip Calvert.

Skeletal remains of Anne Wolseley Calvert.

Despite her prestige, it was obvious from tests conducted that she had been in ill-health long before her death.  A life of luxury carried health risks.  The diets of wealthier colonists were tied to dental decay because of the larger amounts of sugar that they could afford.  The crowns of her front, lower teeth (bottom right image in the collage) had been destroyed by decay.  They were held in place by the tips of the roots.  She had periodontal disease and was chewing on her root stubs.  Her remaining front teeth showed wear patterns from cleaning.  (For more information on this case, click here.)

[Collage created from time-lapse video at the exhibit]

The smallest of the coffins contained the remains of an infant buried later than the two other coffins.  Considering Anne’s age, the child could not have been hers, but might have been the child of Philip’s second wife, Jane Sewell.  Positive identification of the infant may someday be possible with DNA testing.

We could have easily spent more time at the exhibit, but the siren call of spring-like temperatures was too strong.  We left after an hour and went for a stroll along the National Mall.  No, I’m not referring to a shopping mall, but to the wide open space in the heart of DC that has the US Capitol at one end and the Lincoln Memorial at the other end.

Google Maps image of the National Mall showing our area of focus today.

We had no specific destination in mind.  We just wanted to enjoy the nice weather even though clouds were moving in by the minute and the breeze was gaining strength.  We walked slowly, peeking into the National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden along the way.  When we neared the Capitol, we retraced our steps back along the opposite side of the Mall, found a bench, and sat down to do some people-watching.

I’ll be the first to admit that I don’t “get” most of the art in the Sculpture Garden, but here a few images anyway.  Think of them as a change of pace from all the skeletons that I posted in the first part of this blog.

Spider — 1996, Louise Bourgeois
(with the National Archives Building on the left)

left: Puellae (Girls) — 1992, Magdalena Abakanowicz
Right: Typewriter Eraser, Scale X — 1999, Claes Oldenburg

The next part of our plans — dinner in DC — didn’t work out as expected.  We had reservations at Ezme, a Turkish restaurant in Dupont Circle.  We should have known better than to drive there on a Friday evening.  Despite driving up and down the near (and not-so-near) side streets, no parking was to be found.  So, we called to cancel our reservations and headed to Sweetwater Tavern, one of our favorite dining venues in our own neighborhood.

Thanks to Sweetwater’s call-ahead program, we were seated immediately.  Instead of going with our tried-and-true favorites, we each ordered a Caesar Salad and split an order of beef and chicken fajitas.  A great meal overall, although I found the salad to have a bitter aftertaste — too much garlic.  We were good and skipped dessert in lieu of fresh fruit at home.

[collage of images from the website]

The weather is forecasted to turn colder for the weekend, so I’m glad we took this opportunity to be out and about today.  Having a nice outing under our belt will make dealing with weekend chores a bit more palatable.

Exploring National Harbor

Sunday, 13 February

The day was forecasted to be sunny and warm.  So, we decided to play hooky from chores and enjoy the afternoon.  We had a good time, but the day turned out to be overcast, and though the temperature was around 52F (11C), the breeze made it feel much colder.  Oh well; you win some, you lose some.

Our destination today was the National Harbor.  Although this place is closely associated with DC, it’s actually located in Maryland.  The 20-mile (32 km) drive from home could have been plagued with traffic problems (as is usually the case), but we were lucky this afternoon and breezed right down I-495.

Google Maps image showing our route to National Harbor.

National Harbor is a waterfront development that opened in the spring of 2008.  Think fake city overlooking the Potomac River, filled with condos, hotels, restaurants, shops, plazas, and a convention center.  There’s also a marina and piers, and a walking path that connects to the new Woodrow Wilson Bridge, and from there to Old Town Alexandria in Virginia.  Disney has bought land here and will be building its own resort hotel sometime in the future.

Visitors to national harbor are welcomed by The Beckoning, an
85-foot (26 m) tall steel sculpture.

After parking the car, we went for a short walk along the walking/biking path.  On a warm, sunny day I imagine the path would be crowded with walkers, runners, and bikers; but not today.  Despite the cold breeze, we enjoyed the exercise.

Mui shares a bench with his Tortuga buddy.

My primary reason for wanting to visit National Harbor was to see Awakening, a sculpture that was moved here from Hains Point in DC.  Created by J. Seward Johnson, Jr., the five-piece cast iron sculpture was part of a city-wide public art exhibition in 1980.  Only parts of the bearded giant are shown breaking free of earth — the head, a hand, an outstretched arm, a bent knee, and a foot.

It’s not often that this sculpture can be photographed without people play-acting on parts of it, but we managed to get a few good pictures today.  Too bad we didn't have blue skies for the background, but we can’t control Mother Nature, so no use bemoaning the facts.

Mui mimics the popular pose of a man being gobbled up by the giant.

After playing around Awakening for a while, we took a meandering walk around the development, going inside Gaylord National Resort and Convention Center.  It’s an impressive building with a huge atrium filled with shops and restaurants, and a glass wall that overlooks the Potomac River.  I didn’t have my ultra-wide angle lens with me, so no photos I’m afraid.

By now you know I love murals and I found a couple here.  The first one was a huge one entitled Chesapeake Journey.  After our visit, I found the following description of the mural here and excerpted a bit below:

This elaborate hardscape consists of a map of the Mid-Atlantic coastal region inlayed into the central balcony of downtown National Harbor, a new $4B development overlooking the Potomac River near Washington, D.C.  The mural identifies local cities including icons and key monuments famous to each.  Hidden imagery of regional wildlife and portraits of important local figures are veiled throughout the mural, creating a sense of discovery for viewers that evokes the exploratory spirit of John Smith's surveying of the region in 1608.  Flanking either side of the balcony are benches engraved with the names of all the icons.  They read, “Can you find...” to encourage visitors to search the mural for these icons.  It is a didactic tool meant to educate visitors on the Mid-Atlantic coastal region from its beginning in 1604 at Jamestown to the original survey of Washington, D.C. by Benjamin Banneker in 1792.

The mural was difficult to photograph from my vantage point, so I focused on the details.  (The two pictures on the left are from the website referenced above.)

Chesapeake Journey
(Jefferson and Washington dc; Pocahontas; John smith’s boat;
Maryland blue crab; mount Vernon and the Masonic Temple in Alexandria;
George washington; screw-pile lighthouse)

The second mural was a two-panel stained-glass mosaic created by Cheryl Foster and named Maryland’s Bounty.  I loved the brilliant colors of the panels.  Here’s some information from the signage about the portions of the panels I photographed:

Nicie Jones has been picking crabs at J.M. Clayton Co. for 57 years.  She started pickin’ at her mother’s feet at the age of 8.  Her mother, Fronie, picked crabs for 87 years.

Captain John W. Scharch, Sr., shown with a traditional wood slat basket, brokers oysters along the Chesapeake Bay.  A certified charter boat captain, Capt. Scharch has been working on the water for over 40 years.

Chesapeake Journey

The Pumpkinseed Fish is one of the most colorful fish found in Maryland waters and has an orange/red belly with olive green sides that are specked with orange, blue, and emerald spots.  They have an excellent flavor and are low in fat and high in protein.

Daniel Hicks has been working the water since he was 14.  He loves to fish, clam, oyster, and his experiences on the water provide great conversations with his grandfather who worked the water for years.

Named Admiral of the Chesapeake Bay by Governor Parris Glen Denning in 1996, Admiral Earl White worked the Maryland waters for 84 years.  He taught every aspect of “watercraft” on the skipjack Stanley Norman with the Chesapeake Heritage Foundation.

Shipwright Mike Vhalovich has been building and repairing boats nationally for 37 years.  He is shown with a traditional ship caulking hammer, packing oakum (cotton) between a ship’s wooden panels to prevent water seepage.

Intending to have an early dinner at National Harbor, we’d skipped lunch at home.  By 3:30p, we were ready for some grub.  Alas, none of the restaurants struck our fancy, and the one place we did go into showed no interest in serving us, so we left.  Driving back across the Woodrow Wilson Bridge, we headed to Old Town Alexandria to try our luck there.

The new Wilson Bridge opened to bi-directional traffic in 2006.

By this time, the sun was peeking out from behind the clouds.  So, we parked the car and strolled towards the far end of Old Town, perusing menus along the way.  In the end, we opted to dine at The Warehouse Bar and Grill.  The downstairs dining room was filled with patrons seemingly enjoying their meal, so we knew we’d picked a winner.  Initially, we were one of three couples in the upstairs dining room, but that didn’t last long.  Soon, almost every table was being served by a bustling waitstaff.

From the extensive menu, I ordered the Sautéed Shrimp Diane made with garlic, spring onions, and mushrooms (plenty of mushrooms), and served with garlic parsley rice.  Mui opted for the Asian Vegetable Stir Fry with Lo Mein Noodles, topped with grilled salmon.  Both dishes were excellent.

A charming restaurant; a warm ambiance; good food.

With the food perfectly portioned, we had room left for dessert.  We were going to order the key lime cheesecake, but our server gently steered us away from it.  So, we settled on the day’s special, Coconut Rum Cake.  It was a good choice.

Something sweet to top off our meal.

We debated going for a walk after dinner, but the breeze had picked up and the temperature had dropped.  So we headed home instead.  Although the weather didn’t turn out as forecasted, it was nice to be out and about anyway.

X-Stitch: Patchwork USA

This was one of the very first projects I stitched after we moved to the US in 1981. It came as a kit that included light-blue aida cloth as well as the floss.

I consider this project to be the genesis of our plans to someday explore the country in a motor home. Well, we bought the motor home in 2010. Now we just have to retire and get on the road to fulfill our dream.

Here’s Patchwork USA


By the way, this one has not one single mistake or adjustment to the pattern. Nada ... zip ... zero.

One Purpose: Enjoy the Weather

Sunday, 6 February

Our outing had one purpose today. To enjoy a day forecasted to have plenty of sunshine and temperatures in the high 40F range. As a matter of fact, when we left the house shortly before 2:00p, the gauge was reading 48F (9C). Not bad for early February. Though fair-weather clouds were on the increase by late-afternoon, it was still a beautiful day to enjoy a stroll around DC.

From a stroll along the Potomac to dinner in downtown DC.

Locating on-street parking in DC isn’t easy, but Mui always manages to find a convenient spot. Leaving the car on Ohio Drive, we followed the Rock Creek Park Trails in the direction of Washington Harbour. Our 4-mile (6½ km) stroll took us by some familiar landmarks, but also gave us an opportunity to view some that were new to us.

the John Ericsson national memorial
(Lincoln Memorial in the background)

John Ericsson (1803-1889) was a Swedish-American engineer. He’s best known for designing the ironclad USS Monitor, which ensured Union naval supremacy during the American Civil War. He’s also credited with revolutionizing naval history with his invention of the screw propeller. (For more info, click here.)

Sculpted by James Earle Fraser, the memorial features a seated figure of Ericsson, and three standing figures representing adventure, labor, and vision.

Detail from the Ericsson Memorial.
(Vision [top left], labor [center], and adventure [top right])

There are numerous bridges that cross the Potomac River into DC. Our walk today took us over and under a few. One of them, the Arlington Memorial Bridge (AMB) connects the Lincoln Memorial on the DC side with Arlington National Cemetery on the Virginia side. I’ve read that the placement of the AMB was intentional. With the Lincoln Memorial on one end, and Arlington House, the former home of Civil War General Robert E. Lee, on the other end, the bridge was designed to represent the reunification of the North and the South. But that’s a story for another time.

The Lincoln Memorial is at the east end of the Arlington Memorial Bridge.
(this is the back of the memorial)

The east end of the bridge is flanked by two pairs of gilded bronze equestrian statues. We were in position to check out the pair that is known as the Arts of Peace. Now, I have to admit that these are not the most elegant statues we’ve ever seen. In fact, they’ve always seemed rather boxy to us. And they sure could use a good scrub.

Each statue is made up of Pegasus, the winged horse, flanked by two figures. I didn’t want to shoot into the sun, so I took pictures of only one side of the statues; I’ll have to go back one morning to photograph the other side.

The Arts of Peace includes music and harvest, and aspiration and literature.
(featured here, literature [L] and harvest [r])

From the bridge we continued onto Washington Harbour, home to luxury condominiums, office buildings, a public boardwalk, and several restaurants. The place is usually hopping, but not on Super Bowl Sunday. There were just a small number of us non-football fans (sacrilege, I know) enjoying the peaceful quiet of the riverfront views.

Georgetown Skyline and Washington Harbour

Kennedy Center as seen from Washington Harbour.

Washington Harbour was supposed to be just a turn-around point for our stroll. But then we found a surprise here — the 0-mile marker for the Chesapeake and Ohio (C&O) Canal, as well as the remnants of the Tide Lock.

The 184.5-mile (295 km) C&O Canal starts here.

Constructed between 1828-1850, the historical C&O Canal was a shipping channel connecting the tidewater on the Potomac River in DC with the headwaters of the Ohio River in western Pennsylvania. It was supposed to end in Pittsburgh, but didn’t make it that far, coming to an end in Cumberland, Maryland instead.

(I posted more about the canal when we did a boat ride on a short portion of it in May 2009; you can read about our experience here. And, for more information on the canal, click here.)

Mui takes a short cut to the tide lock.

What’s left of the tide lock, the gateway in and out of the C&O Canal.

Here’s how nearby National Park Service signage explained the Tide Lock:

Years ago, canal boats locked into Rock Creek from the C&O Canal about a half-mile upstream and then through the Tide Lock into the bustling world of the Potomac waterfront. Coal, building stones, and other cargo were unloaded at busy wharves or transferred to schooners and steamships. A skirting canal along the river bank led to the Washington City Canal, which followed what is now Constitution Avenue to wharves on the Anacostia River.

Having spent more time at Washington Harbour than we’d anticipated, we made our way back to the car without dallying. Why? We didn’t want to get caught by the pesky 3-hour parking limit enforcement brigade.

Looking across the Potomac River to Virginia.

As dusk fell, we drove into the hubbub of DC, found an on-street parking spot around the corner from the restaurant we were headed to, and entered Rosa Mexicano just as Pat Sajak (of Wheel of Fortune fame) was exiting with his family. (No, I didn’t stop him for a photo op!)

You’re welcome to join us at Rosa Mexicano.
(courtesy of a fellow diner who offered, unasked, to take our photo.)

The table-side preparation of the made-to-order guacamole was fun; the end result was delicious. Mui was very happy with his Flautas de Pollo (rolled crispy chicken tacos topped with salsa pasilla de Oaxaca, salsa verde, queso fresco, and crema). My Enchiladas de Rancheras (soft corn tortillas filled with corn, chayote, mushrooms, and spinach served in a mild tomato sauce) didn’t quite make the cut — mostly I didn’t care for the sauce. Our dessert — Tres Leches de la Casa (three milk cake) — was heavenly. The meringue-covered cake, served with citrus cream and mango salsa, had the right amount of tangy bite and was deceptively “calorie-free light.”

An overall good dining experience.

On that sweet note, we brought our day to a close and drove home. At one point earlier in the day, we’d been tempted to skip today’s outing. I’m glad we didn’t.