Friday — April 23: Part II
After cruising the Bosphorus by car, we headed to Kariye Müzesi. On the way, we detoured to a hillside overlook that offers expansive views of Haliç (the Golden Horn). I’m going to skip that stop for now and focus on the museum instead.
Located in the Edirnekapı district, the Kariye Museum was once the “Church of the Holy Saviour in Chora” (short version, Chora Church). Chora, a Greek word, refers to the original location of the church outside the city walls of Constantinople. Although the church was later incorporated within the walls, the original name stuck.
Kariye Museum — Chora Church
The first church was built in 413–414 AD. Much of the building that is on the site today is the result of a restoration that took place between 1077–1081; the rest dates back to reconstruction work following a partial collapse of the church in the early 12th Century (perhaps due to an earthquake). The mosaics and frescoes that decorate the interior date back to an even later time (approx. 1315 to 1321).
Following the fall of Constantinople to the Ottomans, the church was converted to a mosque in the early 16th Century and became known as Kariye Camii. Although it wasn’t until 1958 that the building was converted again, this time to a museum, work to restore the mosaics and frescoes that had been plastered over began in 1948. (I didn’t see any scaffolding today, so perhaps that work has been completed.)
(Light conditions for the external shots were once again bad … the “aged photo” filter to the rescue!)
Today's museum building has elements from both the 11th and 12th centuries.
 |  |
Left: Exterior view; Right: East view.
Two of the six domes of Kariye.
After purchasing a MüzeKart for Hakan, we all used our cards to enter through the turnstile, thus saving another 15TL (approx. $10) in admission fees per adult. Walking around the rear of the building, we entered through what would have been the narthex. Our first glimpse of the mosaics and frescoes that decorate nearly every inch of the walls and ceilings was enough to render us speechless!!!
Talk about being in the right place with the wrong lens! I sure could have used my 70-200 mm lens to capture better details of the spectacular mosaics and frescoes. Next time!
Is there rhyme or reason to the pictures I took? Not really. Some, I photographed because there was a bit more light; others I did so because they looked interesting or were in particularly good shape. Mom bought me a guidebook to Kariye before leaving the museum, so next time I’ll be able to take pictures a bit more intelligently.
 |  |
Left: The Parecclesion (side chapel).
Right: Fresco of the Virgin Mary holding the child Jesus.
The dome of the Parecclesion is decorated with a medallion of the Virgin and the
child Jesus surrounded by twelve angels, each of which is holding a spear.
| This fresco of the Last Judgment is one of the most crowded scenes of Byzantine art. On either side of Jesus are Virgin Mary and John the Baptist. They are flanked by the 12 apostles seated on benches. Archangels and angels stand behind them. Though not clear, the lower portion of the fresco shows Adam and Eve in the center; to the left are sinners being led to the fires of Hell. The snail, carried by an angel, (center top) represents Paradise. |
A closer look at a portion of the Last Judgment fresco in the Parecclesion.
This fresco of the Anastasis shows Jesus pulling Adam and Eve from their sarcophagi. The doors at his feet are the gates of Hades, which he has broken down. Behind Adam is John the Baptist and the kings/apostles. Behind Eve, dressed in a green robe, is Cain.
A closer look at the fresco depicting the rescue of Adam and Eve by Jesus.
 |  |
Left: The fresco in the dome of the exonarthex has a medallion of Jesus surrounded by his ancestors, from Adam to Jacob. He’s shown with his right hand raised in blessing.
Right: Mosaic depicting St Paul, a Jewish man from Tarsus, who became one of Christ’s closest disciples. He’s shown holding the bible with his left hand and giving a blessing with his right hand.
 |  |
These two mosaics are part of the Khalke Mosaic, so named because the panel was inspired by an icon located in the entrance of the Khalke Palace of Byzantium.
Golden mosaics on the vault of the esonarthex (inner west porch).
Mosaic depicting the presentation of the Virgin Mary to the Temple.
Mosaic depicting Anne giving birth to Mary.
The bottom half of this mosaic shows baby Mary held by her parents, Joachim and Anne.
The bottom half of this mosaic depicts Joachim presenting baby Mary to the clerical leaders for their blessing.
A closer look at the blessing of baby Mary by the clerical leaders.
This mosaic depicting the death of the Virgin is located in the nave of the church. She is surrounded by apostles and church dignitaries. In the halo behind the bed is Jesus, holding a baby, which represents the soul of his mother.
Mosaic depicting Jesus healing a paralyzed man.
 |  |
Golden mosaic of Jesus above the door leading to the inner narthex.
Mosaic depicting Jesus turning water into wine at a wedding in Galilee.
Mosaic depicting the birth of Jesus. In the center is the Virgin Mary resting after the birth of her son. There's a light shining from Heaven onto the baby. The three shepherds are on the right. The scene in the lower half of the mosaic shows baby Jesus being bathed while Joseph looks on.
Kariye is a truly amazing place and I am so glad we went there this afternoon.
Next Up: This-and-That to Wrap up the Day
No comments:
Post a Comment