Sultanahmet Square — Or is it the Hippodrome?

Sunday — April 25: Part IV

A short walk from the Blue Mosque brought us to Sultanahmet Meydanı, the square that was once the Byzantine Hippodrome.

Sultanahmet Square was once the Byzantine Hippodrome.
From top to bottom, the yellow balloons mark the locations of: the German Fountain,
the Obelisk, the Serpentine Column, and the Column of Constantine.

The Hippodrome of Constantinople dates back to the time the city was known as Byzantium.  It was a circus (an open-air venue) used for public events and had seating for 100,000 people.  The name comes from the Greek words for horse (hippos) and path (dromos).  In those days, it was a popular place for horse and chariot racing.  By the time the city fell to the Ottomans, the hippodrome was in ruins.  Though they used the area for various occasions, such as the lavish, days-long circumcision ceremony of the sons of Sultan Ahmed III, the grounds were never restored.

The square today was crowded with people enjoying the warm sunshine and the blue skies.  Kids were running around, playing catch with friends; parents were socializing; tourists were clicking away with their cameras; vendors were plying their trade and tempting people with offers of ice cream, as well as corn on the cob and chestnuts fresh off the grill.

The vendor on the left is selling Maraş Dondurması, an ice cream that is thicker and
chewier than regular ice cream. The unusual texture is the result of the “salep” (a flour made
from dried orchid tubers) and the mastic resin that are used as thickening agents.

Starting at the north end of the square, first we stopped to check out the gazebo-style Alman Çeşmesi (German Fountain).  Commemorating Emperor Wilhelm II’s second visit to the city, the fountain was a gift from him to Sultan Abdülhamit II.  It was built in Germany, transported in pieces, and assembled on site in 1901.  The octagonal dome is held up by eight marble columns, and the dome's interior is covered with golden mosaics.

Next, we strolled to the Dikilitaş (Obelisk of Tuthmosis III). The obelisk, which dates back to 1490 BC, was brought from Egypt and erected here by Theodosius the Great in 390.  It’s said to have marked the finish line for the races that were held in the Hippodrome.  The pink granite column was transported from Egypt in three pieces.  The top piece, the only one to survive, is still where it was placed by Theodosius all those years ago.  Not bad for a 3,500 year old obelisk!

The hieroglyphics on the column reflect the battle victories of Tuthmosis.  The pedestal on which the column sits has bas relief Byzantine carvings, one of which represents Theodosius receiving ambassadors with his wife and children at his side.

Up next was the Yılanlı Sütun (Serpentine Column).  Dating back to 479 BC, the bronze monument was cast at the Temple of Apollo on Delphi to honor the Greek victory against the Persians.  It was brought here during the reign on Constantine I.  Records show that the column was topped with a golden bowl supported by three serpent heads. The bowl was destroyed or stolen during the Fourth Crusade.  The serpent heads, which were inscribed with the names of the 31 Greek city-states, are believed to have been destroyed towards the end of the 17th Century.

(Part of one of the heads is apparently at the İstanbul Archaeology Museum.  I didn’t know that at the time, or I would have searched it out.  The image posted here is from Wikipedia; you can click the picture for a larger version.)

At the far end of the square, we came to the last monument, Örme Dikilitaş (Column of Constantine).  No one seems to know for sure when the column was erected, but it’s named for Constantine VII, who ordered it restored in the 10th century.  Only the rough-hewn stone core survives.  The gilded bronze plaques that covered the exterior were sacked during the Fourth Crusade.

Our exploration of Sultanahmet Square/Hippodrome thus concluded, we took a shortcut across nearby Sultanahmet Park, heading to our next (and final) destination.  Before I get to that though, here are a few images from the 18th Century Kabasakal Medrese, which houses a traditional handcraft market operated by the Turkish Touring and Automobile Association.  (We peeked around the shops on our way from Topkapı to Sultanahmet Camii, but since the blog entry for our visit to the mosque was already photo-heavy, I thought I’d post these here instead.)

The Kabasakal Medrese is also known as Cedid Mehmet Efendi Medresesi.

Example of Ottoman era “Tezhip & Minyatür” (Illumination & Miniature) work.

Example of Ottoman era “Tezhip & Minyatür” (Illumination & Miniature) work.
(the image on the right is a miniature of Sultan Suleiman the Magnificent)

Example of Ottoman era “Hat” (calligraphy) work.

There were some very nice handcrafts here, but we managed to walk out without making a dent in our wallets.  Ooops, not quite true … mom bought a small mirror decorated with mother of pearl inlays.

Next Up: İstanbul Archaeology Museums