Topkapı Sarayı — Where the Sultans Lived

Sunday — April 25: Part I

I hope you're ready for an incredibly full day of sightseeing? There’s a silver lining for you; your feet won't be begging for relief by the time you're done reading the blog posts (wink, wink).

The red balloons reflect the places we visited today.

We were all in the breakfast room earlier than we had anticipated.  Why?  There was no running water!!!  Actually, that’s not true.  There was running water, but it was a muddy mess.  Apparently there was a water main break overnight.  The hotel provided bottled water for simple ablutions, but we all had to make do without our morning showers.  (I won’t leave you in suspense; water service was restored by the time we returned to the Richmond at the end of the day.)

Anyway, after an early breakfast at the hotel, we were ready to get our day rolling.  The streets were deserted — for two reasons: (1) it was only 8:00a on a Sunday; and (2) the Haliç half-marathon was going to be run after a 17-year hiatus and the roads were closed.  The latter meant that we had to get off the tram once we were on the other side of the Galata Bridge and walk the rest of the way to Topkapı Sarayı.  So much for giving our feet a break for a change!

Yes, the first sight of the day was the palace that was home to Ottoman Sultans and their courts.  The palace complex was also the place from which the empire was governed.

Diagram of the grounds from the BKG Guide to Topkapı.

Topkapı was built between 1460-1478 on the orders of Fatih Sultan Mehmet (Sultan Mehmet the Conqueror).  It was expanded and renovated over the years until it became what we see today.  The name, which means “cannon door,” comes from a gate that no longer exists.  Before being named Topkapı in the 19th century, the palace was known as “Yeni Saray” (new palace).  Fatih was the first sultan to reside here; Mahmut II was the last one.  After the Ottoman monarchy was abolished, the palace was converted to a museum (1922).

There are plenty of sites on the web for those who’d like to learn more about Topkapı.  Here’s a Wikipedia post to get you started.

The image to the right is a scan of a postcard I picked up from the gift shop; it depicts selections from the museum collection.  (As with most images in the blog, you can click it for a larger version.)

The entrance fee for Topkapı is 20TL (about $13); free to MüzeKart holders.  The Harem is an extra 15TL; the MüzeKart is not valid for this section of the museum.

To do justice to the extensive complex of buildings and courtyards, and the exhibits contained therein, one would need days, not mere hours.  Like eating an elephant, the best way to tackle Topkapı is one bite at a time; that is room by room.  We opted to focus or attention on the Harem today, but I’ll leave that to a second post and share photos from the grounds first.

Left: Mom and Murat lead the charge.
(the gate ahead is the side entrance to Ayasofya; added by the Ottomans)
Right: Looking back at the Bâb-ı-Hümâyun (Imperial Gate) from inside the first courtyard.

Located in the first courtyard, Hagia Irene was used as a storehouse and armory by the Ottomans.

Bâbüsselâm (Gate of Salutation) has become the symbol of Topkapı;
it leads to the Council Square (second courtyard) and the palace proper.

Bâbüssaâde (Gate of Felicity) is the entrance to the Enderûn (inner or third courtyard),
which comprises the private and residential buildings, such as the Harem.

No one was allowed to pass through the Bâbüssaâde without the permission of the Sultan.

One of the miniature landscapes that decorate the Bâbüssaâde.

The Enderûn Library, so named because it is located on the grounds of the inner palace
(third courtyard), was built in 1718 by Sultan Ahmet III.

Left: Drinking Fountain — Enderûn Library
Right: The interior of the library is decorated with 16th & 17th century İznik tiles.

On the terrace of the Mecidiye Pavilion.

View of the Bosphorus from the Mecidiye Pavilion.
(a small portion of the palace ramparts are visible at the bottom of the picture)

Sultan Murat IV built the Baghdad Pavilion to commemorate the success of his
1638 Baghdad Campaign.

With its tiles dating to the 17th century, mother-of-pearl and tortoise-shell cupboard and
window panels, the Baghdad Pavilion is one of the last examples of classical palace architecture.
The silver “mangal” (charcoal brazier) was a present from King Louis XIV of France.

The İftariye Pavilion is a popular spot for souvenir photographs.
The name comes from “iftar,” the meal eaten after sunset during Ramadan to break fast. 
It’s said that the sultans customarily broke fast under this bower.

View of the İstanbul skyline from the İftariye Pavilion.

Now known as the Sünnet Odası (Circumcision Chamber), the room
was once the summer sleeping chamber of the sultans.

Interior detail from the Sünnet Odası.

Murat makes a friend at the gift shop.

Admittedly, our tour was incomplete, but it was all that our time here allowed before the crowds descended on the museum.  The lines to see the more popular exhibits, such as the imperial treasures and the sacred relics, were incredibly long.  A&M and mom checked out a few exhibits while I was dallying in the Harem, but I didn’t have the patience to queue up later. That's OK; I've seen them before; and there's always next time. In the meantime, here's a 3-D tour you can take at your own pace.

Next Up: Topkapı Sarayı — The Harem