Step Back into Antiquity

Sunday — April 18

One great sunshine-filled day with a light breeze to keep the summer-like temperatures at bay; two great locations — Şirince and Efes, the latter known the world over as “Ephesus.” And let’s not forget the bonus of the day — Meryemana (aka Meryem Ana Evi — House of the Virgin Mary).

The sites we explored today are south of İzmir.
(for perspective, I’ve also marked the locations of Selçuk and Kuşadası)

Our day started out in the village of Şirince (shee-REEN-jeh), approximately 73 miles (~117 km) from İzmir. Historians claim that the first settlers here were a small group of people who moved into the mountains after the fall of nearby Ephesus. In fact, ancient documents refer to the area as “Ephesus on the Mountain.” That the oldest building in the village dates back to the Hellenistic Period gives credence to this claim.

Later, during the time of the Aydınoğulları (around the 15th century), the area was re-settled by an Orthodox Greek population and the village was named “Kırkınca.” The story goes that the villagers wanted to keep others away from the area, so they described it as “Çirkince” (sort of ugly) and the name stuck. In 1924, Turkish families that emigrated from Salonica and other Greek cities settled the village that was vacated by the Greek population at the time of İzmir's liberation. Not long after, impressed by the quaint beauty of the village, the visiting Governor of İzmir renamed it “Şirince” (sort of cute or charming).

I’d have to agree with the governor’s assessment. White-washed, two story houses dot the hillsides, their same-size multi-windowed architecture, hanging balconies, and decorated eaves adding to the charm of the village, which has seen a tourist boom in recent years. We didn’t wander around the village this time, but you can click here to see photographs I took in 2007.

Glimpse of the houses of Şirince.

It was a bit too early in the morning to partake of the wines for which the village is known. Instead, we had breakfast at Le Jardin (The Garden). We enjoyed every bite of the food that covered every inch of the table — fresh breads and baked goods; plates of “gözleme” (hand-rolled flat bread filled with cheese and spinach); sweet homemade jams; variety of cheeses; garden-fresh tomatoes and cucumbers; locally grown black, brown, and green olives; a small bowl of dipping olive oil, and “bal kaymak” (honey with Turkish clotted cream). We washed it all down with the ubiquitous “çay” (tea) served in traditional tulip-shaped glasses.

A tasty breakfast makes a good start to our day.

From Şirince, we drove the few miles to Efes (Ephesus). There are two ways of visiting the ruins. You can park near the upper ruins, walk down, and take a “Fayton” (horse carriage) back to the parking lot (if you have a driver, he can pick you up from the lower parking lot). You can do this in reverse as well. Or you can walk the ruins round-trip from either parking lot. We opted for the latter, a stroll of approximately 2.5 miles (~4 km). Parking in the lower lot, we made our way past busloads of tourists re-joining their tours and vendors hawking everything imaginable, purchased our entry tickets, and headed inside to explore one of the most renowned ruins of antiquity.

If you can’t tell the difference from the real thing, they must be genuinely fake!

Legend has it that in the 10th Century BC, Androclos, the son of Kodros, the King of Athens, was looking for a place to establish a new settlement. The Oracle of Delphi had foretold that the site would be shown to him by a fish and a boar. And so it was — someone was frying fish; one of them fell out of the pan, startling a boar hiding in the bushes; the boar fled; Androclos followed, killed the boar, and established the new city where he had slain the animal.

The city was built and re-built many times over; the ruins that have been unearthed are from the third city. There’s a great deal to be said about Efes, and not nearly enough time or blog space to do it, so I’ll just refer those who are interested in learning more to this Wikipedia post.

Leaving mom to people-watch from a shaded step just outside the Great Theater, A&M and I went off to explore the ruins.

Map of the ruins of Efes.
(courtesy of the Sacred Destinations website)

It was hot; it was crowded. The mid-day light was harsh on the eyes. None of that deterred us as we made our way up Marble Street to the Celsus Library, stopping along the way to check out what is considered to be the first advertisement in the world — for a brothel, no less. We peeked into the public bathrooms of yesteryear; studied the intricate carvings at the Temple of Hadrian; admired the mosaic sidewalks of Curetes Street that have survived millennia; climbed to the top of the Odeon; and eventually strolled back down to the Great Theater. Though the upper reaches of the theater were off-limits due to ongoing restorations, we clambered over row after row of seats to go as high as we could and eavesdropped on conversations that were taking place far below us (excellent acoustics).

Ambling up Marble Street, we glimpse the Lower Agora and the Celsus Library.

The first advertisement in the world directs people to the brothel.
(the left foot means the brothel is on the left side; the woman's head symbolizes the women
waiting in the brothel; and the heart shows that the women are eager for love)

The Celsus Library was built in 117 AD to honor Celsus Polemaenus,
who served as the Governor over the Asian provinces of the Roman Empire.

The Celsus Library, with an inventory of over 12,000 scrolls, was the third richest
library of antiquity (after Alexandria and Pergamum). There were double walls behind
the bookcases to protect the scrolls from the extremes of temperature and humidity.

The fee-based public toilets, built in the 1st Century AD, were part of the Scholastica Baths.
There was an uncovered pool in the center and a drainage system under the toilets aligned along the walls.
The columns surrounding the pool supported a wooden ceiling.

It’s said that the rich Ephesians would send their slaves to warm the stone seats at the
public toilet. Today, tourists fulfill that role!

Blast from the Past — September 1988
“Two to Travel” at the public toilets with Aylin & Murat.
(how young we were!)

Photographer caught in action!

Mosaic sidewalks on Curetes Street have survived millennia.

Built during the first half of the 2nd Century AD, the Temple of Hadrian
is the second oldest temple at Efes.

The bust on the arch of the Temple of Hadrian is Tyke, the goddess of victory.
The figure on the architrave behind was thought to be Medusa, but has since been determined to be Fortune.

Built around 104 AD, the Fountain of Trajan honors the 13th Emperor of Rome.

The Gate of Hercules, located towards the end of Curetes Street, was brought to Ephesus
in the 4th Century AD, but the reliefs on the columns date back to the 2nd Century AD.

Curetes Street — looking from the Gate of Hercules towards the Celsus Library.

Left: Detail from the Gate of Hercules.
Right: Murat takes a load off at the Monument of Memmius.

The Monument of Memmius, built in the 1st Century AD, honors the grandson of Dictator Sulla.

Built in the 2nd Century AD, the Odeon served two purposes — first, as the Bouleuterion
(meeting place for the Boulea [Senate]) and second, as the Odeum (concert hall).

The Odeon had a capacity of 1500 spectators.

Efes is not just about ruins of antiquity.

Built on the slope of Panayır Hill (Mount Pion), the Great Theater was first constructed
during the Hellenistic Period (3rd Century BC). It was enlarged to what we see today during the
Roman Period. It had a seating capacity of 25,000 spectators.

Blast from the Past — September 1988
The upper reaches of the Great Theater are currently closed off for renovation, hence this “ancient” photograph.
The acoustics are such that you can hear whispered conversations taking place on the stage far below.

Glimpse of Arcadian Street (aka Harbor Street) from the Great Theater.
As the main entrance from the port into the city, the marble-slabbed, colonnaded street
was designed to impress visitors.

As time was short this time, I left exploring the Terrace Houses to another time (I can hear the groans and “how could you’s” being directed at me even as I write this).

After leaving Efes, we headed to our next stop. But first we made a quick detour to the Grotto of the Seven Sleepers. According to both Christian and Muslim scriptures, seven young men (and their dog) were walled in here during the reign of Decius (250 AD) and yet were seen alive on the streets of Ephesus during the reign of Theodosius II some years after the Council of Ephesus (431 AD). Have to say that this one falls into the “been there; won't be going back” category.

Grotto of the Seven Sleepers

According to Christian beliefs, the Virgin Mary was brought to Asia Minor (now Turkey) by the Apostle John after the Resurrection of Christ. Here, she spent her last days in a house on “Bülbüldağı” (Mount Nightingale — aka Mount Koressos), working alongside John to spread Christianity. Our last stop of the day was to the site of her house, commonly referred to as Meryemana (Meryem Ana Evi — House of the Virgin Mary). Though the Roman Catholic Church has not formally recognized the authenticity of the house (lack of scientifically acceptable evidence), it has been blessed by many Papal pilgrimages, the first of which was by Pope Leo XIII in 1896.

The original house is believed to have had an anteroom (where today candles are lit), a bedroom, a prayer room (today’s church), and a room with a fireplace (today’s Muslim chapel).

The House of the Virgin Mary has been converted to a small chapel.

In what used to be the prayer room is an altar at which believers pray to the Virgin.
(photography not allowed inside; scanned from a postcard)

The “Adak Duvarı” (Pledge Wall) is popular with visitors to Meryemana.

Left: Asking Allah for “peace, health, and happiness, as well as sharpness of mind and a high station in life.”
Right: Statue of the Virgin

On the way out, Mom and A&M pose for me at the baptismal pool.

The hour had grown late by the time we were finished at Meryemana. It was all the inducement we needed to grab a bite to eat before getting back on the road to İzmir. One of the cafés outside the sanctuary provided the perfect setting for an al fresco meal to recharge the energy the summer-like temperatures had drained from our bodies. My “peynirli börek” was so-so; should have ordered the “köfte” plate instead. (Peynirli Börek = baked, flaky pastry filled with cheese; Köfte = Turkish meatballs.)

It was a long, but fulfilling day — tomorrow, I plan to take it easy.

Next Up: A Preview of “23 Nisan”