Arrivederci Roma

Monday, 21 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: Hi 82F (28C) / Lo 64F  (18C)

We said farewell to my family today … they took an early morning flight back to Turkey where I will see them in a couple of weeks when I arrive in İzmir for my annual visit with them.

One of the last things we did together before they left was a night tour of Rome.  I have no “post”cards since low-light and a moving vehicle don’t make for ideal photography conditions with Mui’s smartphone, but I thought I’d share one photograph at least.

The Coliseum being used as a canvas for an art installation/slideshow consisting
of images of bacteria collected from the walls of this ancient structure.

Tomorrow we leave Rome for the next segment of our fall travels in Europe.

PostCards from Ancient Rome

Thursday, 17 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 91F (33C) / Lo 73F (23C)

It hasn’t been easy to sightsee with the ever-rising temperatures, but we’ve soldiered on with our exploration of Rome since my family joined us on Monday.  Yesterday and today, we headed out bright and early and used the tickets we purchased online to visit Palatine Hill, the Roman Forum, and the Coliseum.

Stadium of Domitian — from Palatine Hill

Domus Augustana — Palatine Hill

The Forum and the Coliseum from a terrace on Palatine Hill.

The Temple of Antoninus and Faustina (left) and Temple of Romulus from Palatine Hill.

Temple of Saturn (columns on the right) with Palatine Hill in the distance.

Arch of Septimius Severus

Looking across the Atrium Vestae.

Forum of Caesar

Coliseum

Sorry … no time for more than just pictures at the moment.

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

PostCard from the Ostiense Quarter

Sunday, 13 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 79F (26C) / Lo 70F (21C)

Today was moving day.  After sending Hakan off to do some sightseeing, we grabbed a cab to our home away from home for the next week.  While still convenient to the “must-see” places in Rome, this apartment is outside the historic center of the city.  In fact, one more block and we would be outside the Aurelian Walls, which were built in mid-270AD to enclose the seven hills on which Rome was founded.

We had plans to do some sightseeing this afternoon, but checking in with the rental agency rep took a little longer than we expected.  Instead, we went for a stroll around the neighborhood, found an excellent gelateria for a little sweet treat, and then returned to the apartment to settle in.

The Pyramid of Cestius and the San Paolo Gate of Rome's Aurelian Walls are
two of the landmarks that are a 5-minute walk from our apartment.

Our plans to enjoy the large terrace that comes with this apartment were rained out unfortunately.  Oh well, we’ll be here for a week so I am sure another opportunity will present itself soon enough.

Tomorrow, my family arrives and we will resume our sightseeing.

PostCards from Our Stroll to Piazza della Repubblica

Saturday, 12 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 82F (28C) / Lo 61F (16C)

We had set this morning aside to pack our bags.  No, we are not leaving Rome, but rather moving to a larger apartment for our last week here … one that will accommodate my family, who will be joining us on Monday.  My nephew was to have arrived this morning, so we had planned to do some sightseeing with him this afternoon.  As it turns out, his flight was delayed and he had to switch to a later flight that will be arriving early this evening.

A good excuse to put off packing!  Instead, we went for a meandering stroll that took us to Piazza della Repubblica … with a few stops along the way.

The Fontana dell'Acqua Felice [Fountain of Happy Waters] is also known as the Fountain of Moses.

A rare traffic-free moment affords a clear view of the Fountain of the Naiads on Piazza della Repubblica with the Basilica of St Mary of the Angels and the Martyrs in the background.

We’re back at the apartment now.  The bags are packed and the pasta water is set to boil for a quiet dinner at the apartment once Mui and Hakan arrive.  Tomorrow is moving day … but maybe we’ll get to squeeze in some sightseeing, too.

PostCards from Trastevere

Friday, 11 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 79F (26C) / Lo 61F (16C)

Today’s sightseeing plans took us to Trastevere … literally, across the Tiber [River].  Here we wandered through narrow streets and around neighborhoods that I found to be a more authentic Italian experience … more like what I was expecting to see.  We even found a small trattoria for lunch — da Lucia … a family-operated establishment since WWII.  Located on a narrow alley, with a row of tables lined up on the cobblestone street, it was just the kind of casual dining experience we were looking for.

But before enjoying the good food, we visited Villa Farnesina.  Every room of this early 16th century home of a banker from Sienna is decorated with jaw-droppingly beautiful frescoes painted or designed by artists of the period, including Raphael.

The Hall of Perspective Views … the frescoes in this room have a distinctly 3-D effect.

The north wall of what was the bedchamber of the banker is decorated with
a Fresco known as the Marriage of Alexander the Great and Roxana.

Having started our day with a church visit on the way to Trastevere, we ended it at another church.  Then it was across the Ponte Garibaldi [Garibaldi Bridge] and back to the east bank of the river.  As we were crossing the Tevere, the skies got dark and we heard the distant rumble of thunder.  We didn’t quite escape getting sprinkled on, but the heavy rain waited to fall after we were safely at the apartment. 

looking across the Tevere where it is split by Isola Tiberina [Tiber Island].

Another great day in Rome … and so much still remains to be seen and done.

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

PostCards from Galleria Borghese

Thursday, 10 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 79F (26C) / Lo 61F (16C)

Timed-admission tickets are required to visit Galleria Borghese, an art museum housed in the former villa by the same name.  When I say timed tickets, I mean that literally.  Tickets are sold in two hour blocks — you enter at a specified time, and you’re shooed out at a specified time.  Mui went online Tuesday evening and bought tickets for the 3:00-5:00p slot today … the only time available this week.

Taking the morning easy, we had lunch on the terrace before setting out for the gallery.  Of the several bus lines we could have taken, #160 arrived first so we jumped on it even though we knew we’d have a longer walk through a big park to get to the gallery.  We had plenty of time before our appointed time, so the stroll under the shade trees turned out to be a pleasant diversion.

The former Villa Borghese is now a gallery filled with much of the art collected by the family.

The collection of paintings and statues is housed in 20 rooms on two floors of the former villa.  And what rooms they are … with paintings on the vaulted ceilings and frescoed walls at every turn, they are works of art in their own right.  The opulence of old Rome is something to behold.

When our designated time came, we were directed to the top floor first to wander around at will.  Although we didn’t plan it that way, we spent an hour on each floor, thus using our allotted two hours equally.  Scattered amongst the classical works of artists such as Raphael, Bernini, and Caravaggio — to name just a few — was a very modern couture sculpture exhibit that added another dimension to our visit.

One of several beautiful ceiling medallions in the Galleria Borghese.

Modern couture sculptures against a classical background.

I wasn’t sure we were going to have time to fit the Borghese into our schedule this trip.  So glad we did … it’s the kind of place that will easily turn anyone into an art aficionado.

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

PostCards from Il Vittoriano

Tuesday, 8 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 79F (26C) / Lo 63F (17C)

To say that the Vittorio Emanuele II Monument is gigantic would be an understatement … it can be seen from almost anywhere you go in Rome.  Also known as the Altar of the Fatherland, the white marble monument that dominates Piazza Venezia was built as an homage to the man considered a symbol of the movement for a united Italy, and who later became the first king of the nation.

Opulent … yes, that’s one word to describe the monument.

Our meandering walk through the patriotic exhibits inside led us to the first terrace from which we enjoyed views of the Rome skyline dotted with the domes of several of the 2,000 or so churches the city boasts.

We’ve visited several of the churches marked by these domes; the Vatican’s
St Peter’s Basilica is the farthest dome on the horizon, just right of the center.

We debated taking the elevator up to the top for aerial views of the city, but the queue was long and it was brutally hot waiting under the sun.  No matter; we headed to the terrace behind the monument instead and enjoyed the pleasing views of many of Rome’s iconic sites from there, including the Forum and the Coliseum.

While at the monument, we also visited the adjacent Basilica of St Mary of the Altar of Heaven … one of the most impressive churches I’ve seen in Rome to date.  As it turns out, we stumbled upon a service commemorating — if that’s the right word — the Italian armistice of 8 September 1943.  We sat awhile and listened to the military choir that was performing for the service before resuming our sightseeing.

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

'Plog': St Peter’s Basilica … Let’s Go Inside

Saturday, 5 September 2015 (Part II)
Trevi Comfortable Terrace Apartment — Rome, Italy

My previous post covered the first part of our afternoon at the Basilica Papale di San Pietro [Papal Basilica of St Peter]  — after we skipped the line to get inside.  The up close and personal look at the central dome, and the beautiful views of the cityscape from the lantern will remain a highlight of this trip to Rome.

By the time I took the elevator down from the terrace, I was ready to step inside the basilica, which has a special significance for Catholics everywhere around the world.

I’m not a necessarily religious person, but I have to admit that my first glimpse of the interior — looking across Maderno’s nave towards the Papal Altar and Bernini’s Baldacchino [above photo] — was quite impressive.  And more than a little mind-bogglingly overwhelming.  With my eyes roving from one spot to another, I took a surprisingly small number of photographs.

St Peter's Basilica … the Cupola Climb

Saturday, 5 September 2015 (Part I)
Trevi Comfortable Terrace Apartment — Rome, Italy
Temps: Hi 81F (27C) / Lo 72F (22C)

I woke up at 9:00a, feeling like a new woman after a good night’s rest — especially after I got some caffeine in me.  I wasn’t being lazy … after going to bed in the wee hours of the morning, I deserved to sleep in a bit, dont’cha think ;-)

It wasn’t just my growling stomach that woke me up, but also the rumbles of thunder portending stormy weather was afoot.  The shutters were closed, but the lightning lit up the room intermittently … like a flickering lightbulb calling attention to itself.  The pitter patter of rain signaled that breakfast would be indoors this morning … and lunch, too.

'Fake' PostCards from the Vatican: Basilica di San Pietro

Saturday, 5 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 81F (27C) / Lo 72F (22C)

If anything, the queue to get into St Peter’s Basilica was longer when we returned to the Vatican this afternoon … thus validating our decision to buy timed-entry tickets that bypass the line.

Arriving shortly after 2:00p, we checked in with Opera Romana Pellegrinaggi … essentially the tour entity of the Vatican, directly overseen by the Cardinal Vicar to the Pope.  We were then escorted as a group to St Peter’s Square where the security checkpoints are located.  A dedicated checkpoint processed our group before we continued on to the basilica.

Since it was a sunny, blue sky day, we decided to spend a few additional Euros to go up to the cupola first … chose the elevator + 320 steps option.  Worth every single penny to not only get up close to view the details of the central dome, but to go out to an observation balcony with 360-views of the cityscape.

The central dome is one of the largest in the world. …

… It rises just over 448 feet (136.5 m) from the floor of the basilica.

Aerial view from the cupola balcony … the big building that lies diagonally from left
to right is the Vatican Museum, with the Sistine Chapel at the far end on the right.

St Peter’s Square and beyond.

Round and round and round we next walked down to visit the basilica itself.  What an awesome place.  I was impressed with the mosaic altar pieces that looked like paintings, but the lace-like carvings of the vestments of some of the marble statues truly wowed me.  Then there was the Pieta … breathtakingly beautiful … even though it now resides behind bulletproof glass … and has ever since it was attacked by a crazed man with a hammer in 1972.

We wandered around for quite a while, and I took quite a few photos in the areas that were not cordoned off for mass, but I will share only one ‘fake’ postcard here.

Basilica di San Pietro … looking across Maderno’s nave to Bernini's Baldacchino and the chancel.

That I could have spent all day here studying intricate details goes without saying.  If all you’re going to do is spend time in the basilica, you can go at any time during the day; but if you plan to go up to the cupola to enjoy the cityscape, then afternoon would be best.

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

PostCards from the Vatican … and Castel Sant’Angelo

Friday, 4 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 86F (30C) / Lo 70F (21C)

Our sightseeing started at 3:00p today with a metro ride to the Vatican where we were hoping to visit Saint Peter’s Basilica before our 7:00p visit to the museum.  That part of our plans didn’t work out as the line to get into the church was very, very … and I mean, very long.  With time on our hands, we walked around a bit, went to check out Castel Sant’Angelo, and then slowly wandered back to the Vatican Museum for our appointed entry time.  WOW!  That’s all I can say about the museum at this time … I need time to process the overwhelming experience.

St Peter’s Basilica and Square

Castel and Ponte Sant’Angelo

One of the many awesome ceilings in the many rooms of the Vatican Museum.
In case you can’t tell … this postcard is faked ;-)

Tomorrow we will return to the Vatican.

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

Musei Vaticani — WOW!

Friday, 4 September 2015
Trevi Comfortable Terrace Apartment — Rome, Italy
Temps: Hi 86F (30C) / Lo 70F (21C)

After our long day in Tivoli yesterday, we took the morning off to rest.  I suppose you could say that we just turned the day upside down, doing our sightseeing late in the afternoon and at night instead.

It worked out nicely as the forecasted thunderstorms rolled through while we were at the apartment.

Luckily for us, we have a “dry” and sunny morning for our morning meal on the terrace.  The tower in the distance is the Sanctuary and Basilica of Madonna del Miracolo.  It’s one of our neighborhood churches.

By mid-morning it was raining hard, and the day had turned downright muggy.  We decided to change our lunch plans.  Instead of going out to a neighborhood restaurant, Mui prepared spaghetti with a tomato and sausage sauce, and we stayed cool and dry by eating in the dining room.

When in Italy what do you eat?  Spaghetti, of course.

The rain that plagued us for most of the day was supposed to continue through the night and into the next morning, but so far that’s not been the case.  I should know … it is 1:00a [Saturday] as I type these words.

PostCards from Tivoli

Thursday, 3 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 95F (35C) / Lo 70F (21C)

Today we ventured outside Rome proper.  Two metro trains and an hour-long bus ride found us in Tivoli on a daytrip that we mostly spent at the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Villa d’Este and its beautiful gardens.  The latter are more commonly known as the Tivoli Gardens … famous for the multitude of fountains scattered around the extensive grounds.

Chiesa di Santa Maria Maggiore ... Villa d'Este is through the archway on the right.

Tivoli — as viewed from one of the loggias at Villa d’Este.

Fontana dell’Ovato [Oval Fountain]

Cento Fontane [Hundred Fountains]

Fontana di Rometta [Rometta’s Fountain]

Peschiere [Fish Ponds] … from the terrace of the Organ Fountain.

Fontana dell’Organo [Organ Fountain] … across one of the fish ponds.

Fontana dell’Organo … yes, there is an organ in the structure
on the top terrace that plays music periodically.

Following our meandering stroll through the gardens, we explored the rooms of the villa … jaw-droppingly awesome frescoes covered the walls and ceilings of almost every room.  You can imagine it was hard for Mui to pull me away from here, but eventually my feet, my neck, and my back gave out ;-)  Alas, no postcards, but you can be assured that I have a zillion photos to share when I get home and write the story of this day.

Leaving Villa d’Este, we wended our way through town to Sibilla to have a late lunch — or early dinner, take your pick.  The restaurant gets its name from the ruins of a 2nd Century BC temple that is adjacent to the establishment.  The unique setting, combined with a bottle of wine and excellent food, served as a wonderful wrap up for our visit to Tivoli.

Sibilla — the restaurant (pink building); and Sibilla — the ancient temple.

What a great day we had.  And the bonus — at 86F (30C) it was 5° cooler in Tivoli than it was in Rome ;-)

We have a great museum visit planned for tomorrow night; I think we’ll take it easy during the day … I know my feet could use a break for sure … not to mention my shutter finger!

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

Piazza Navona … Panteón … and More

Wednesday, 2 September 2015
Trevi Comfortable Terrace Apartment — Rome, Italy
Temps: Hi 88F (31C) / Lo 66F (19C)

Not that it is essential — most all of the locals we encountered today spoke English — but it sure makes getting around Rome easier if you speak the language.  I don’t speak Italian; but Mui has a good conversational grasp — a carry over from when he lived in Rome for three years as a young boy.  He took advantage of our encounters with the locals to practice his Italian and get us around Rome today.

No sleeping in this morning!  Our day started early with breakfast on the terrace.  Not a leisurely one, however, since we wanted to get going and start exploring.

As this is my first time in Rome, Mui is in charge of all the sightseeing for our three-week stay — you might say that he’s my live-in tour guide.  After all, aside from having lived here for a few years as a child, he was in Rome for a week in 2011 with his mother, so the city is still “fresh” in his mind.

We put our shiny new transit passes to use to take a bus from the stop that’s a block or so from the apartment to the Della Valle stop in the city’s Sant’Eustachio District.  We could have walked there probably, but nothing in Rome is as close as it seems on the map and we wanted to save our feet for all the ‘necessary’ walking we knew was ahead of us.

When we got off the bus, we detoured from our planned itinerary briefly to visit our my first church in Rome — the Basilica di Sant’Andrea Della Valle …  the church where Puccini set the first act of Tosca.  What a pleasure it was to walk into a church where we were the only ones visiting.  And what an impressive introduction it was to Rome’s highly-gilded churches.

[Feel free to click any image for a larger version in my online gallery.]

Vault over the nave.	Ceiling detail above the altar.

PostCards from Piazza Navona

Wednesday, 2 September 2015
Rome, Italy
Temps: HI 93F (34C) / Lo 70F (21C)

It was a hot day … humid, too.  By the time we returned to the apartment at 3:00p, I was drained.  That Rome is especially crowded this time of the year is a factor in how quickly the energy is sucked out of me.  After speaking to the locals, it has become apparent to us that there is no such thing as a “slow” season in Rome anymore.  So, I sucked it up and we merrily went about our day of sightseeing.

A short bus ride took us to the first stop on today’s itinerary — the Basilica Sant'Andrea della Valle … one of the many beautiful churches in Rome.  It had the distinction of being the only place we had to ourselves today, so I especially liked this peaceful church.  Then we were off to the market place at Campo di Fiori; the Piazza Navona with its beautiful fountains and the Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone; and finally the Panteón, a building that dates back to 126 AD, and which has been used as a church since the 7th Century.

A lunch break away from the madding crowds and then it was onto one of Rome’s signature gelaterias — Giolitti — with some photo stops along the way.

Alas the crowds were such that the only place where we got postcards today was at Piazza Navona.  We tried inside the churches, but not enough light to get any decent shots with Mui’s smartphone.  I may have to “fake” some postcards, but I’m too tired to work on photos today ;-)

Chiesa di Sant'Agnese in Agone and the Fountain of the Four Rivers with the Egyptian Obelisk.

Fountain of the Four Rivers

Tomorrow we will be going out of town to do some sightseeing.

© 2004-2015 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.