Devrim: the Car

Thursday, 1 September 2016
Eskİşehİr  — Turkey
Temps: Hi 80 (27C) / Lo 57F (14C)

This morning, on our way from the Anadolu University guesthouse to Işıl’s house, we stopped at the TÜLOMSAȘ factory.  Our brief five-minute stop had nothing to do with the locomotives and train wagons built at the plant.  Rather, our purpose was to check out the only remaining Devrim Arabası [Car of the Revolution] on display here.

The gist of the backstory is that in 1961 then-President Cemal Gürsel ordered the production of the first car to be designed and built entirely in Turkey and with Turkish resources.  Four prototypes were completed for unveiling during the 29 October Republic Day celebrations in Ankara that same year.  One black and one cream-colored car was shipped from Eskişehir by train — with just enough gas to maneuver the cars … a safety precaution that backfired when the cars were later unloaded in Ankara.

President Gürsel got into the black car before the gas tank was topped off and set off on the much-anticipated ceremonial ride … only to have the car come to a halt after just 100 meters (approx. 300 feet) when it ran out of gas.  He completed the ride in the cream-colored car, whose tank had been topped off in the interim.  But the damage was done.  The newspaper headlines the next day proclaimed that the Devrim had managed to travel only 100 meters before breaking down.  The car became the subject of jokes for years to come.  It was never mass-produced … partly because technical drawings to replicate the process of building the car did not exist.

(The full-story is in the link above, or you can check it out on Wikipedia.)

If only the gas tank had been topped off, history might have written
a different ending to the story of the Devrİm Arabasi.

In 2010, Pakistani university students, inspired by the Devrim Arabası, developed a hybrid vehicle that they named Devrim II … so perhaps the work done in 1961 was not in vain after all.

© 2004-2016 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

RIP Şule Anne

Wednesday, 31 August 2016
Eskİşehİr — Turkey
Temps: Hi 83F (28C) / Lo 60F (16C)

Mom and I traveled to Eskişehir on the overnight train from İzmir, arriving today for my mother-in-law’s funeral … she passed away yesterday at the age of 93.  Mui would prefer that I not dwell on her passing.  So, let me just say that she lived a long and healthy life, and was much loved by family and friends.

Şule Füsun Erkun

© 2004-2016 Two to Travel.  ALL RIGHTS RESERVED by ERIN ERKUN.

Mavi Tren Takes Us Back to İzmir

Monday, 15 October

Mom and I are back in İzmir.  Time to wrap up the final leg of our trip.

Our journey from Eskişehir back to İzmir started last night when we boarded the TCDD (State Railway) operated Mavi Tren (Blue Train) shortly before midnight.  We should have boarded around 11:00p, but as usual, it was late arriving from Ankara, the departure point for this sleeper train.  I rode this train many times when I was a university student traveling from Ankara to İzmir for holidays and semester breaks, so the delay came as no surprise.

Before I get to the story of this train trip, indulge me with a short blast from the past.

It was 1995, if my recollection serves me right.  Mui and I were on our annual trek to Turkey, timed this time to coincide with the wedding of his niece.  The festivities over, it was time for us to return to İzmir to wrap up our trip.

Tickets in hand, we went to the train station to hop on the Mavi Tren.  Back then, the train arrived from Ankara after midnight.  As usual, the train was late.  When it finally showed up around 1:00a, we gathered our bags and hurried to board the sleeper car.  Not so fast, said the car attendant.  Turns out that we had neglected to consider the train’s post midnight arrival in Eskişehir — our tickets were dated for the previous day, which coincided with the departure from Ankara not Eskişehir.

We begged.  We pleaded.  The car attendant called the conductor.  Neither was budging — we needed to get new tickets if we wanted to be onboard when the train pulled out.  And we had to do it in the next five minutes.  I stayed with the bags, and Mui ran back into the station to get tickets from the only window that was open.  Luckily, there was no one else in line and he made it back with just seconds to spare before the all aboard was called.

Lesson learned — we haven’t made the same mistake since.  And you can bet I was extra careful buying the tickets for this train trip ;-)

The blue train from Eskİşehİr to İzmİr is scheduled as a 10-hour ride;
it took us 12½ hours to make the trip.
[map courtesy of the TCDD website; annotated to show the route we took]

Mui and Işıl dropped us off at the Eskişehir train station around 10:30p.  They wanted to keep us company until our departure, but with the delay already posted on the board, it didn’t make sense for all four of us to go sleepless.  Promising that we would call should a problem arise, we insisted they leave us to our own devices.

By the time the train pulled into the station, it was 45 minutes past the scheduled 11:00p departure.  Knowing that the engineer would be trying to make up the delay with a shorter stop in-station, we were already in position where the sleeper car was expected to stop once it arrived at the platform.  With the car attendant handling our bags, within minutes we were aboard and settled into our compartment.

I was hoping for one of the newer sleeper cars, but we were out of luck.  Though the
furnishings were obviously worn, the bed linens were starched and snow-white clean.

Tired after a long day, I didn’t do a good job of taking photos, so let me try to describe our compartment in words.  As seen in the top right of the collage, we had two seats with arm rests when the sleeping bunks were folded against the wall.  Across from the seats was a bar fridge with two bottles of water and a couple of snacks — all complimentary.  Next to the fridge was a small storage cabinet for our personal belongings.  In the corner next to the sliding door to the compartment was a fold-up wash basin and a mirror — both clean, but showing evidence of having been well-used.  The bed linens were starched and ironed, and snow-white clean.  Facilities were located at either end of the sleeper car, including a separate shower room.  (The fare was 73 TL [~ $40] for me; and 67.50 TL [~ $37] for mom with a senior discount.)

Can’t say that we had a totally restful night.  Between the clackety-clack-clack of the train speeding down the rails and the swaying of the car, we were more than a little alert throughout the night.  Still, catnapping in a swaying bed on a train beats a sleepless night sitting upright on a bus seat, so no real complaints.

The rural landscape passing by our window this morning was filled with
olive groves, wheat fields  and vineyards.

Mom and I were both awake before sunrise.  Reading in bed for a while, we waited until 7:00a to go to the dining car for breakfast.  The tea was lukewarm and left a lot to be desired, but the breakfast plate and the omelet we ordered to split was plentiful and satisfying.  And the service was quick and courteous.

A satisfying meal for two that included a traditional breakfast plate and
an omelet — with rolls, and tea or coffee included — for 12.50 TL (~ $7.00).

We returned to our compartment to find that the car attendant had removed the bed linens and tucked away the beds.  Flagging him down, we asked the burning question: what time were we due in at the Basmane terminal.  Turns out that far from making up the 45-minute delay we had started out with, we were now delayed by three hours.  The news didn’t come as a surprise, so we made ourselves comfortable reading and watching the scenery go by.

The scenery whizzes by as we clackety-clack our way west.

The stop in Menemen signals that we have an hour left before we arrive in İzmİr

The highrises of İzmİr’s urban sprawl are familiar sights …

… as is the naval shipyard of Alaybey on the outskirts of the city.

Finally, at 11:30a, having made up half-hour of the three-hour delay, we pulled into Basmane Garı (train terminal). 

Welcome back to İzmİr.
Our Mavİ tren is the one on the left.

One last look to bid the Mavİ tren farewell.

We flagged down a cab outside the terminal for the 5-minute ride home.  Having already alerted Aylin to our arrival, she had a pot of fresh tea brewing when we walked into the apartment.

Though this little side trip that mom and I took is over, there’s still a week left before Mui and I head back to the US.  The days ahead promise to be just as busy as the days past.

Eskişehir: Sazova & Porsuk Çayı

Sunday, 14 October (Part II)

After exploring Odunpazarı (post here), we turned our attention to another recently developed park in the city.  Officially the Bilim, Kültür ve Sanat Parkı (Science, Culture, and Arts Park), this nearly 100-acre (400,000 m²) green space is popularly known as Sazova Parkı — in reference to the district in which it is located.

Aerial view scanned from brochure.

With an admission fee of 1.50 TL (~ .80¢) per person, the park is very popular with both locals and visitors to the city.  It has a lot to offer — a fairytale castle inspired by the one at EuroDisney; a galleon; boating and ziplining concessions; playgrounds; an amphitheater; and a variety of eateries.  Also part of the park, but outside the perimeter, is the Sabancı Planetarium (Space House and Science Center) — think Epcot’s big sphere, but entirely dedicated to space sciences.

With limited time, we skipped the planetarium and strolled the pathways that meander around the oversized-pond.  We had a bit of time on our hands before meeting up with the rest of our party, so we paid the extra admission of 1TL/person (~ .55¢) to go aboard and tour the full-scale replica of the pirate ship.  Turns out, the ship was inspired by the Santa Maria, the largest of the three ships that brought Christopher Columbus to the Americas.  Curious as to why the developers had opted to replicate a Spanish galleon instead of an Ottoman-era kadırga, we were told that the next ship they plan to build will be of that design.

The pond is not only home to the pirate ship, but also offers young sailors a place to train.

Captain’s Quarters — No pirate should be without a parrot!

Below decks is a galley and a brig whose occupant is long past caring that he is behind bars.

Continuing our stroll towards the restaurant where we would be joining the rest of our party, we stopped to check out the fairytale castle, which — when completed — is going to be an activities center for kids of all ages.  From a distance, the Disney inspiration was obvious.  When we got nearer, however, the differences — as in the shapes of the towers — became obvious.

We were able to recognize some of the well-known Turkish towers represented —
such as İstanbul’s Galata Kulesİ and KIz Kulesİ (Leander’s Tower) — but for some of the others …

… we had to refer to the information panel nearby.

We met up with Mui’s mom, Ergin (his brother-in-law), and Banu (his niece) at Kocatepe Cafe, one of several restaurants overlooking the pond.  Arriving early, they had snagged a table on the terrace, which made a perfect setting for an al fresco meal on a warm October afternoon.

View from our table.

I neglected to take photos during lunch, but suffice to say that the portions were huge, and we could have easily shared a couple of dishes amongst us instead of placing individual orders.  Thanks for treating us, Ergin.

Following our meal, Işıl took the three of us into the heart of the city where we continued our sightseeing.  Our first stop after parking the car was the Haller (old wholesale market).  Once a place for bulk produce sales, the crumbling building has been restored to house gift shops, cafés, and a central seating area.  With its wrought iron balconies rimming the second floor, it was a charming place that was rather quiet on this Sunday afternoon.

The old wholesale produce market is now known as the Haller Youth Center.

From the Haller, we walked through streets that were wall-to-wall with people enjoying the summer-like weather.  Our destination was the promenade that rims the Porsuk Çayı, which runs through the city.  The locals refer to this waterway as a çay (stream or creek).  At 278 miles (448 km) long, I think river would be a better description.

With high walls containing the waters of the Porsuk; bridges connecting the two sides of the river; sightseeing boat rides; and apartment buildings, cafés, and shops on either side, one might describe the neighborhood as the Amsterdam of Turkey.  (Photos scanned from postcards.)

We debated having a cold beverage at one of the cafés, but no one showed the slightest inclination of vacating a table.  So, we walked along the promenade and did some people-watching instead.

An afternoon bathed in golden sunshine on the Porsuk River Promenade.

Colorful pedestrian bridges provide access from one side of the river to the other.

When we reached the boat landing we decided to give our feet a break and take a boat ride on the Porsuk.  Visitors have a choice between small motorized boats operated by Esbot and gondolas (a la Venice).  We decided that the Esbot would do just fine for us.

A boat ride anyone?  Or would you prefer a gondola ride?

Paying the 1.50 TL [~ .80¢] per person fare, we hopped on the next boat for a short 15-20 minute ride that took us down the river to Köprübaşı (head of the bridge) before returning us to the boat landing.

Ready for our boat ride.

Passing under another colorful bridge …

… we arrive at the turnaround point at Köprübaşı.
[scanned from postcard]

We concluded our visit to Eskişehir with dinner back at Işıl’s house.  We were all still rather full from lunch, but no one could say no to a bowl of mantı — tiny dumplings filled with ground meat, usually served with yogurt, and garnished with a variety of toppings from chopped walnuts, to crushed mint, to ground sumac … oh, and a drizzle of paprika in melted butter, of course.  Yummm!!!

Sorry, no photos again, so I borrowed the one to the right from Wikipedia!

Around 10:00p, Mui drove mom and me to the train station to catch the sleeper train to İzmir.  The train was due in from Ankara, and as anticipated, it was late — I don’t think I’ve ever been on that train when it was on time … unless I boarded at the embarkation point ;-)  After an hour’s wait, the train finally showed up.  And without further ado we began to clickety-clack our way down the tracks.

I was too tired to take a departure photo.  Instead, I’ll leave you with these mute swans at Sazova Parkı.  They make an excellent …

… “the end” for our little side trip.

See you back home …

Eskişehir: Odunpazarı

(catch-up Post)

Sunday, 14 October (Part I)

After a good night’s rest at the guest lodgings on the campus of Anadolu University, mom and I had breakfast in the dining room and checked out from our rooms.  It was a beautiful day to enjoy the campus, so we went for another stroll around the grounds as we waited for Mui and Işıl to come by to take us sightseeing around the city.  First stop: Odunpazarı.

Odunpazarı Evlerİ (the Houses of Odunpazarı) and
the statue of Mal Hatun, the wife of Osman I, founder of the Ottoman Empire.
[scanned from postcard]

Translated as the firewood market, Odunpazarı is a metropolitan district of Eskişehir.  History records it as the site of the oldest settlement in the area, which gave rise to today’s modern city.  Recent restoration of the 19th century Ottoman style houses has turned it into a hotspot for visitors.  Some of the houses have been converted into museums, boutique hotels, and restaurants; others remain as private residences.

This end of the street is lined with houses not yet renovated.

The colorful exterior paint job is a hallmark of the restored houses of Odunpazari.

I find that I don’t take nearly as many photos when I’m not wandering around by myself, or with just Mui as my companion.  So, if you’d like to see more of the houses, click here.

Işıl had a couple of museums in mind for us to visit.  It turns out, however, that only one of them was open today — the Çağdaş Cam Sanatları Müzesi (Museum of Modern Glass Art).  The museum, housed within a complex of renovated buildings, opened to the public in 2007.  Since then, the glass works of Turkish artisans, as well as invited foreign artists, have been exhibited here.  Many of the really creative pieces were difficult to photograph, but I managed to click the shutter to capture some of the art on display.  This was perhaps my favorite stop of the day.

Left: The museum is housed in a collection of renovated buildings that open onto a courtyard.

right: One of my favorite pieces is this one by S. Gülgün Ürgüplü; it features a maiden
with İstanbul’s Leander’s Tower (KIz kulesİ; or maiden’s tower) incorporated into the design.

Salamander - Abbas Pekıṣık.

Glass art by Ekrem Özen (left) and Mehmet Koç.

Although this piece by Beyza Tükel is unnamed, it’s easy to figure out what it is.
I thought the artist was quite creative in filling the hopper with silica
and showing glass coming out the grinder heads.

Left and Center: Glass caftan by Yasemİn Aslan Bakİrİ
Right: Madonna and Child by guest artist, George Papadopoulos.

By this time, we were quite thirsty, and our feet were telling us that it was time to take a break.  Finding ourselves near Atlıhan Çarşısı (literally, Inn with the Horses), which was constructed as an inn in the 1850s, and renovated and converted to a handicraft market in 2006, we decided that a café in the courtyard behind it would serve just fine for a brief rest.

Resting our feet and quenching our thirst at Yağcızade Konağı (literally translated as
mansion of the son of the oil man), which gets its name from the blue house in the courtyard.

a sİmİt from the bakery, split four ways, to tide us over until lunch.

Our last stop before leaving Odunpazarı was a market set up for women to sell regional handcrafts, homemade foods, knitted and crocheted clothing, and decorative items.  With plans to live full-time in our motorhome after retirement later this year, I wasn’t interested in shopping.  However, it was interesting to see how these women had formed cooperatives in order to use their skills to make a little extra pocket money.  And in some cases, earn a living.

Mom and Işıl both bought bags of homemade tarhana — which their respective families will benefit from when they use it to make soup.  And Aylin benefited from this stop with a gift mom picked up for her — a pair of fingerless gloves.

Homemade goods ranging from food, to decorative items, to clothing.

Yummy gözleme (flatbread of sorts) made to order … but we resist since we have a date for lunch.

On that note, we left Odunpazarı behind to meet Mui’s brother-in-law and mother for lunch in a different part of the city.  But I’ll keep that for the next post.