Postcards from the Road: Wellington to Wanganui

Friday, 13 March 2015
Wanganui, North Island — New Zealand

From Wellington, New Zealand’s capital, we headed north along the west coast of the island.  Our destination: Wanganui … also spelled as Whanganui.  The city, we were told by the proprietor of our motel, was once considered as an alternative site for the country’s capital.

Before leaving Wellington, we searched out and found a memorial to Atatürk, the founder of modern day Turkey.  Why would there be a memorial to him here in New Zealand?  Let’s just say that it all goes back to the World War I Battle of Gallipoli.  More on that when I write the story of our day.

The words inscribed here are translated from a speech Atatürk gave in
honor of the ANZAC soldiers who fell during the Battle of Gallipoli.

Once on the road to Wanganui, we made a couple of stops ... nothing really planned; just wherever the mood struck or where something interesting caught our eye.

Lunch on Otaki Beach.

Foxton is filled with colorful murals that enchant me.

Another Family Visit and a “Remembrance House”

Thursday, 3 November

A beautiful fall day found mom and me on one of the new municipal busses that zip around the city. Except that we didn’t just zip a short distance; we rode the bus all the way around the bay from Alsancak to Bostanlı, one of the municipalities of Karşıyaka (which literally translates as the opposite collar, or the opposite shore). The ride took about 45 minutes, and was an easy means of getting us to my uncle’s house. In fact, the bus dropped us off just steps from the street on which they live, so we couldn’t have asked for better. And you can’t beat the price — 1.75TL (approx. $1). Now, had the traffic been bad, I might have felt differently about taking the bus, but our mid-morning trip meant little traffic to hinder us along the way.

The map above is actually one that shows the ferry landings (existing and projected). since we took the ferry back from KarşIyaka to alsancak via pasaport (see the area circled), I thought it would do nicely to show where bostanli is in relation to where we are in alsancak.

Adnan Amca (uncle) is my father’s younger brother. He and Suna Yenge (aunt by marriage) have lived in Bostanlı for as long as I remember. Except that what I remember is a two-story house in a garden; and a snake we found in the front yard one day when I was on a sleep-over visit! But that’s a story for another time. In any event, that house is no more. Several years ago, the house was razed and in its place was built a multi-story apartment building; they live on the second floor.

My uncle has not been in the greatest of health in recent years, so I was glad to have a chance to visit, and was delighted when he actually chatted with me. (Last time I saw him, he was rather quiet and not talking much with anyone.) That he was happy to see me was apparent from the twinkle in his eye; that made my day.

The photo above was taken at my cousin Hülya’s engagement party in December 1974. I’ll start with the back row (R to L): Suna Yenge, yaman (my cousin), KamİL (Hülya’s fiancé), Hülya (may she rest in peace; we lost her at a very young age), adnan amca, my father, mom, “Moi of the big hair”, Ruhan (my cousin), Cİcİ (or serpİl), Hala (my aunt), and Denİz (my brother). The gentleman sitting down is my paternal grandfather; the ladies are relatives on yenge’s side of the family. The little girl closest to my grandfather is Aylİn.

After our short visit, mom and I hopped a bus to downtown Karşıyaka. We’d planned to have lunch and then go to a “remembrance house.” Since we were stuffed from the ıspanaklı börek (pastry filled with spinach) my aunt had served with tea, we decided to skip lunch and go straight to the next part of our plans.

The Latife Hanım Köşkü Anı Evi (Latife Hanım’s Villa Remembrance House), a house that dates back to the 1860s, was renovated and opened to the public in 2008 (no admission). It is built in the Late Ottoman architectural style. I had no idea this house existed until mom suggested that we visit it.

Collage of photos showing the villa pre- and post-restoration.
[top right and two bottom photos scanned from the brochure]

Latife Hanım was Atatürk’s wife. The house belonged to her family and was used as a summer residence. It is significant in Turkish history as the place where Atatürk’s mother, Zübeyde Hanım, died in 1923.

(P.S. Hanım is an honorific used in referring to women; it can be translated as Mrs or Ms.)

embroidered frame displaying a photograph of Latİfe HanIm and Atatürk.

At the entrance, we were asked to put disposable plastic booties over our shoes and were then left to wander around at will. The brochure and the signage around the house focuses on events that took place in the house, such as Zübeyde Hanım’s first dinner here, and Atatürk’s words at his mother’s grave. While they made interesting reading, there was little information about the period furnishings used to decorate the interior of the house.

rooms on the First Floor

Detail from the rooms.
The flag in the top right is one that atatürk walked under when he arrived in İzmİr on
10 September 1922, following the liberation of the city from the occupying greek forces.

Walking up the stairs to the second floor, I was taken aback by the reflection in the mirror of an elderly woman sitting in a chair. The woman looked so much like the pictures I’d seen of Zübeyde Hanım that it could have been her twin. I had to chuckle when, moments later, it dawned on me that the figure was made of wax! It turns out that the three main rooms upstairs each had a wax figure to greet visitors. I later read that it took 2.5 months to make each one.

Latİfe HanIm
[note the inset picture that was the inspiration for this figure,]

atatürk

Zübeyde Hanim

Collage of B&W images from the billboards in the front yard of the villa.

Instead of taking the bus back for the return trip to Alsancak, we took one of the ferries that scurry back and forth across the bay. Operating on a regular schedule, the ferry system is another inexpensive means of public transport (1.75TL [approx. $1]). Our timing was perfect and we had a very short wait at the Karşıyaka ferry terminal before we boarded the boat that took us to Alsancak via Pasaport.

From Karşiyaka ...
The monument in the lower left honors “atatürk, his mother, and women’s rights.”

... to Pasaport ...
The pasaport ferry terminal dates back to 1884.

… to Alsancak.
Top Left: the former NATO Headquarters building.
Left Center: MSC Magica in port for a day-visit.
bottom Left: Note how the MSC Magica looks like it’s one of the kordon apartment buildings.
Top right: The building with the flag is the house where atatürk lived when he came to İzmİr.

We wrapped up the day by joining Aylin and her friend for afternoon tea; thanks for the çay and tasty treats, Aylin.

Tomorrow we’re heading to a resort town where I spent many a childhood summer. Since I’m leaving Sunday to return to the US, it will probably be my last real outing of this trip. I intend to make the most of it!

Anıtkabir: Atatürk’s Resting Place

Tuesday, 25 October

Every country has a historic figure — a hero, if you will — who stands head and shoulders above all others; someone instrumental in changing the future of that country.  For Turkey, that person is Gazi Mustafa Kemal Paşa — better known by the last name he was given in 1934 by the Turkish National Assembly: Atatürk (Father of the Turks).  As the leader of the War of Independence, and the founder and first president of the Republic of Turkey, he has a special place in the hearts of the people of the country.

This morning, after breakfast at home, we headed out to do some sightseeing.  First on the list: a visit to Atatürk’s mausoleum — Anıtkabir, which translates as “Memorial Tomb.”

Forty-two steps lead up to the Mausoleum, the centerpiece of the memorial complex.

I was last at Anıtkabir in 1986 when I came to visit Mui, who was on a 15-month, unaccompanied assignment at the US Embassy in Ankara (he was serving in the US Air Force at the time).  I’d also visited the memorial complex numerous times as a university student.  Each occasion was a memorable experience.  Today was no different.  I have to admit that the beautiful fall weather added greatly to our visit.  As did the fewer than expected number of visitors, most of whom stayed just long enough to pay their respects before moving on to other sites around Ankara.

The white marble platform, used for ceremonial speeches, is inscribed with Atatürk’s words, now considered the motto of the turkish republic:
Sovereignty unconditionally belongs to the nation.

Atatürk died at İstanbul’s Dolmabahçe Palace in 1938.  His body was brought to and temporarily interred at the Ethnography Museum in Ankara until the construction of a memorial tomb could be completed.  He was reinterred at Anıtkabir on 10 November 1953, the 15th anniversary of his death.

Anıtkabir’s design was chosen following an international competition launched in 1941.  After considering various recommendations, the National Assembly settled on Rasattepe (Observation Hill), later re-named Anıttepe (Monument Hill) as the location of the complex.  Construction began in 1944 and was completed in four stages nine years later.  The material used in the construction was brought from various locations around Turkey to represent the people’s love and devotion to the founder of modern Turkey.

Consisting of four primary areas — Alley of the Lions, Ceremonial Plaza, Hall of Honor (location of Atatürk's tomb) and Peace Park  — the memorial complex covers an area over 8 million square feet (750,000 square meters).

Scanned From the brochure: (2) Alley of the Lions; (3) Tower of Liberty and the “Men’s Group” Statues; (4) Tower of Independence and the “Women’s Group” Statues; (5) Ceremonial Plaza; (6) Tower of Mehmetçİk; (7) Tower of Victory; (8) Tomb of İsmet İnönü; (9) Tower of Peace; (10) Tower of April 23 (National Sovereignty); (11) Flag Pole; (12) Tower of National Pact; (13) Tower of Revolution; (14) Tower of Republic; (15) Tower of Defense of Rights; (16) Mausoleum.
[for more information, click here]

Left: View of the Mausoleum of the First President of the Turkish Republic from
the tomb of the Second President of the country.
Right: the Changing of the Guard at the Mausoleum always attracts a crowd.

The ceiling of the marble Hall of Honor is decorated with golden gilt mosaics.
The symbolic sarcophagus stands at the far end of the grand hall.
[a 24-hour video feed allows a glimpse into the tomb room, which is otherwise closed to visitation.]

A visit to AnItkabİr is a school outing looked forward to by all kids.

Left: Representatives from all branches of the Armed Forces stand guard at the mausoleum.
Right: Aylin & Murat at AnItkabİr.

Glimpse of the Ceremonial Plaza from the Mausoleum.

Reliefs representing two of the great battles of the War of Independence decorate
the wall on either side of the stairs leading up to the Mausoleum.

A closer looks at the reliefs representing the Battle of Sakarya
and the Battle of the Commander-in-Chief.

The eight towers of the ceremonial plaza are connected with colonnades.

The gun carriage that carried Atatürk’s body to AnItkabİr (historic photo below)
is on display in the Tower of Victory.

The 24 lion sculptures that line either side of the 860-foot (262 m) long Alley of the
Lions are representative not only of peace and power, but also of the 24 Turkic
tribes of Central Asia.  The 2-inch (5 cm) gap between the pavers makes for a difficult
walk up the path.  That design was intended to ensure that visitors approach the
mausoleum with their heads bent, seemingly in respect and contemplation.

Two groups of statues greet visitors that approach AnItkabİr via the Alley of the Lions.
In the “Women’s Group,” two of the women are holding a sheaf of grain that represents the
fertile lands of Anatolia.  The woman holding the cup is praying for Allah’s  blessing on Atatürk.
The woman in the center is crying at the loss of Atatürk.  The “Men’s Group” consists of a helmeted
soldier representing “Mehmetçİk,” the turkish soldier.  The man with the book represents
the Turkish intellectual and youth, and the man in the rear represents the Turkish peasant.

A recent addition to Anıtkabir is the Atatürk and War of Independence Museum.  Entered through the Tower of National Pact, the museum consists of four sections.  In the first, Atatürk’s personal belongings are exhibited.  In the second, scenes from the Battle of Gallipoli and the War of Independence are depicted in dioramas.  The third area is dedicated to the national struggle to become a Republic and the subsequent reforms.  The final section exhibits books from Atatürk’s extensive private library.

Unfortunately, photography is prohibited in this most excellent museum, so I can only provide a link to the virtual tour.

The shape of Turkey is represented by the Turkish flag, made with red and white gravel;
purple pansies represent the Black, Marmara, Aegean, and Mediterranean seas;
and grass represents Turkey’s land borders to the east and southeast.

We spent three hours wandering around the memorial complex and the museum.  One could easily spend an entire day here and still not do justice to all there is to see and experience.  But with so many other sites to see, we moved on after a quick snack at the onsite café.

The rest of the day’s activities … in the next post.

Atatürk Evi

Tuesday — April 20: Part IV

The visit to my last museum of the day was unplanned. I’d been enjoying my day so much that I was looking for an excuse to extend it. Enter into the picture: Atatürk Evi (Atatürk House). The visit did more than extend my time out and about town, it brought me back from the antiquities to the 20th century again. (By the way, the museum is free to the public.)

For those who do not know, Mustafa Kemal led the Turkish national movement in the Turkish War of Independence. As a matter of fact, the name “Atatürk” was given to him to honor his role as the founder of modern Turkey. (Those who’d like to learn more about him, can do so here.)

Atatürk Evi is a neoclassical building with a mixture of Ottoman and Levantine architectural features.

Located in Gündoğdu Square, on the Kordon in Alsancak, the building dates back to 1875-1880. It was built by a local carpet merchant. Following İzmir’s liberation on 9 September 1922, the abandoned house became the headquarters for the Turkish Army. During the February 1923 İzmir Economic Congress, Atatürk carried out his private studies in this building. Later, the Turkish Treasury leased it out as a hotel (Atatürk stayed at this hotel, which was named “Naim Palas”). In 1926, the İzmir Municipality purchased the building, refurbished it, and presented it to Atatürk as a gift. He stayed here during his visits to İzmir between 1930 and 1934. Following his death in 1938, the Municipality expropriated the building, converted it to a museum, and opened it to the public in 1941. Since then, the house has gone through several restorations and refurbishments, the most recent being in 1988. When I asked, I was told that the furnishings in the museum are the same ones Atatürk used (the upholstery and curtains have been changed as the original fabrics had deteriorated beyond repair).

When I visited this museum in 1994, I asked if I could take photographs. The response was: "Yes, but don't take too many." Go figure!!! In any event, the one museum attendant who was on duty didn't say anything to me about photographs this time ... here's your virtual tour.

A bronze bust of Atatürk set against the Turkish flag and a historical photograph
of him are two of the main features of the lobby.

Left: Every clock in the museum is set to 9:05a, the time of Atatürk’s death on 10 November 1938.
Right: The grand staircase leads to the first floor, where Atatürk had his private rooms,
including those where he entertained visitors to the residence.

At the top of the stairs is the reception salon.

One of the many historic photographs on the wall of the salon shows Atatürk
saluting the cavalry during a military review.

Library/Conference Room
(note inset — each mahogany chair has a tile in the backrest depicting a scene from Shakespeare’s works)

Dining Room

Atatürk’s Aide-de-Camp’s Room

Guest Bedroom

Atatürk’s Bedroom

Atatürk’s Private Bathroom

Atatürk’s Private Study

I’d love to go back to the museums I visited today, including the Atatürk Evi, and take my long lens along to photograph some of the details that were out of the range of my camera today … maybe next time.

Next Up: When You Need a Plumber ...