Quito: Hopping Off the HO-HO at La Basilica

Wednesday, 4 July (Part IV)

Following our visit to La Compañia (post here), we boarded the HO-HO at Plaza Grande for the short ride to La Basilica el Voto Nacional (The Basilica of the National Vow).  We could have walked there, but the basilica sits atop a steep hill and by this time our energy was starting to wane.  After all, we were out and about on just five hours of sleep.

Although the decree to build the basilica was issued in 1883, Construction of
this unfinished neo-gothic church didn’t begin until1892.
[photo taken when we stopped to view the basilica on the celebrity city tour.]

The entrance fee to visit the basilica is a more reasonable $1.50/person.  Later, though, we heard others had paid $3 so we’re wondering if we got in for the local price.  Since Mui spoke Spanish to the ticket seller, it’s possible they thought he was Latino (happens often), and assumed he was Ecuadorian.  Or we just got lucky.

In 1884, when Congress designated the budget for constructing the basilica,
12,000 pesos was set aside — 1,000 pesos per month.  Later, donations were ACcepted
from believers, who provided stones in exchange for engraving their names on them.
In 1895, the state established a tax on salt to continue the construction.
About 30% of the building is yet to be completed.

Although the interior is quite grand — stunning, even — its simplicity stands in stark contrast to all the gold and glitter of La Compañia.  Perhaps that will change once construction is completed; perhaps not.  In the meantime, the 98 feet (30 m) high stone walls serve as an unpretentious canvas for the stunning stained glass windows in the nave and the rose windows (in which the 350 species of orchids that grow in Ecuador are represented).  The soaring ceiling draws the gaze of visitors up, up, and up; intentional I’m sure — for its symbolism, if nothing else.

(The color of the stone and the ambient light gave my photos a pinkish tint that I didn’t care for; hence the B&W treatment.)

From the Crossing, looking towards the altar (left) and towards the main entrance.

Glimpse of one of the aisles (left) and the Rose Window in the crossing.

The afternoon light made for a brilliant display of stained glass windows.

After wandering around the inside for a bit, we walked back out and around to a side entrance to explore the courtyard.  I was surprised that we had the place to ourselves, as had been the case inside; no complaints about that.

according to legend, when the basilica is completed, the end of the world will come!

at the main entrance is a statue of Pope John Paul II who blessed the basilica in 1985.

 

Detail from the door panels (above and below).

One of the things that makes this basilica interesting is its gargoyles, the carved stone grotesques that decorate the exterior.  Instead of traditional gargoyles, the ones at this church are based on fauna representing the four regions of Ecuador: the coast, the highlands, the rainforest, and the Galapagos Islands.  In addition to those animals featured in the pictures below, we were told that there are also caymans and monkeys (rainforest); and penguins, owls, flightless cormorants, hawks, and sea lions (Galapagos and the coast).  Not all were easy to see.

On the left are the only traditional gargoyles at the Basilica;
on the right are gargoyles in the shape of the Galapagos sea turtle.

More fauna gargoyles: marine and land iguanas (top left and bottom right)
representing the Galapagos; jaguars (bottom left) representing the rainforest;
condors (center) representing the highlands; and anteaters (top right) representing the rainforest.

We’re very glad we went into the basilica; especially since the Celebrity tour on Saturday didn’t go inside and just viewed this edifice from outside.  Our only regret — distracted by the beautiful stained glass windows and the interesting gargoyles, we completely spaced out climbing the bell tower (and that’s what the entrance fee really is for).  I’m sure our growing fatigue played a role in the omission as well.  Next time :-)