Wednesday, 4 July (Part II)
I already had El Panecillo on my sightseeing list, so I was especially glad to see it listed as a stop on the HO-HO (Hop-On Hop-Off) bus tour. We even talked about staying longer here to eat lunch at Pim’s Panecillo, a restaurant recommended for its views, and catching the next tour bus back in to town. By the time we got there, however, our appetite was still not what it usually is, so we skipped that portion of our plans.
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Left: We’re still on the HO-HO; heading up to EL Panecillo.
RIGHT: En route, we stop to get some air put in the tires!
Of the 12 stops along the tour route, the only one where the bus actually waits around — about 15-20 minutes — is El Panecillo, and I think that’s to provide passengers with a bathroom break as well as give them an opportunity to enjoy the views of the city from a higher elevation.
The HO-HO bus at El Panecillo.
Before the Teleferiqo (cable car) that whisks visitors up to 13,450 feet (4,100 m) was built, Quiteňos and visitors alike went up to the 9,990 feet (3,016 m) high El Panecillo (Little Bread Loaf) to enjoy views of the city. Though still a popular viewpoint, the hill has lost some of its original attraction. For those who are less altitude-tolerant, however, it’s a better option.
We get our first real glimpse of El Panecillo and the Virgen de Quito from a steep hill
in the Centro. Of volcanic origin, El Panecillo was known to the ethnic Quichua
people as Shungoloma, meaning “hill of the heart.”
Atop the pedestal on which the statue stands is a balcony. Visitors can go up there for great views of the city. I’d read the fee was $2/person, but when I asked the attendant, she said $10. That was such an obvious tourist rip-off that we opted to take our memory shots from the terrace on which the monument sits.
The 134 feet (40+ m) tall aluminum statue of the Virgen de Quito (Virgin of Quito) is said to be the only monument in the world displaying a winged Madonna. It was inspired by a description in the Book of the Apocalypse. Constructed of 7,000 pieces of aluminum, the statue is a replica of the Virgin of the Apocalypse of the Immaculate Conception — aka “The Dancer,” which was sculpted in 1734 by Bernardo de Legarda, and which now decorates the main altar of a church in the city.
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The Virgin stands atop a globe and is stepping on a snake, which is classic Madonna iconography.
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The Virgen de Quito seems to be in a direct line with the Basilica in the centro.
(Plaza grande is in the bottom left corner.)
Our slow pace wandering around was essential at this altitude, but it meant that we didn’t get around to seeing the views from the other side of the hill. Another 10 minutes would have been good. We could have stayed behind for the next tour bus, of course, but that would have given us too much time up there. So, when the call came, we boarded the bus to return to the Centro to do a couple of hop-offs in order to explore a few of the churches.
Another great tour. Is that city as crowed as it looks?
ReplyDeleteYes, the city is quite populated. The number we were quoted is about 1.8 million. Quito is located in a long and narrow valley (54 miles long by 7 miles wide), and it is boxed in by volcanic and non-volcanic mountains, so the majority of the population lives on the valley floor. Population is growing in leaps and bounds as Ecuadorians who immigrated to Spain years ago are returning to their homeland in the face of Spain's financial problems.
DeleteWhat a treat to see this view, and how lucky are we all, to have access to the Roving Erk-Kams?
ReplyDeleteThis is just the greatest.
On to the churches please.
And all Mary’s should have wings ;)